Good for you!!! Glad to hear you have made the decision to DIY. Never mind that
may save some $$$, but you'll get a great sense of satisfaction when you start
up and drive off anew!
>From my experiences, the bearing that failed is the #3 Connecting Rod bearing
(counting from front to rear). Don't know why, but they always do. If any
has turned to powder, then you MUST change them all and the main bearings too
because of the way the oil passages are routed from journal to journal. (That
sort of silly thing I just said, 'cause you can only buy them in sets of 4.) It
not be necessary at all to change the cam bearings. Many good auto parts stores
have a machine shop in house with prices for each individual task such as
the camshaft bearings, or grinding & polishing the crankshaft. It is important
have the crankshaft measured carefully for wear, and grind & polish to fit the
size bearing. Costs about $150: bearings are available from Moss Motors and
on the list. Haynes or Clymer's shop manuals will walk you through the rebuild
have all the torque specs you'll need, plus there's a bunch of MG nuts out here,
both near and far, just dying to help you each step of the way.
Robert Haigney wrote:
> I'm out in Sunny California, not too far from Riverside, I'm going to take a
> look at the bearings tomorrow, as from reading everyone's e-mails this seems
> be the main consensus, the engine runs great while idling, two garages, one MG
> one want between $1500 and $2500 to rebuild the thing, so I've decided to give
> it a go myself.
> As I said, I'm going to remove the sump and check the bearings tomorrow, and
> replace them and then go from there.
> Thanks for everyone's input, I look forward to e-mailing with everyone, it's
> great to know, I'm not alone, and there are so many helpful owners out there.