OK Bart,
We all need to learn the hard way. :o)
Is the ring you're referring to the white nylon ring? If so, the best way is
to carefully drill two small holes on each side of the ring. Take two long
dry wall screws and carefully screw into the holes. Pull on the screws to
remove the nylon ring.
Under the ring (if memory serves correctly) is a retainer ring that will
need to be compressed with a long pair of needle nose plieers that have a
very narrow tip.
Once this is removed, the rest "should" pull out. If there is any scoring or
rust pitting on the inside of the master...please!...either get it resleeved
with a brass sleeve or buy a new one!
A master cylinder is a replacable part...you're not!
I remember hearing this statement and continuously repeat it to others...
"Going is an option. Stopping is a MUST!"
Keep this in the back of your mind...you shouldn't have any concerns with
your brake system...if you do...fix it or get it fixed correctly.
I'll stand down now and give the soap box to whom ever would like to use it.
Dan Dwelley
77 Midget
Alexandria, Va.
On Mon, 06 Mar 2000 22:45:04 -0800, Bart Niswonger wrote:
>
> I forgot the disclaimer -- I know that most folks recommend
> replacement over rebuilding, and I respect that view. However I still
> want to give the rebuild option a shot. I read recently in the
> Roadster Factory's catalog something along the lines of "We recommend
> that people use new (or rebuilt?) master cylinders, but we understand
> that you may need to discover that for yourself." Well, call me an
> idiot, but I like to think of myself in the "discovery phase" :)
>
> With luck, I will not end up in the dead discovery phase.
>
> Feel free to express your opinions (i.e. flame away)!! [but could
> someone answer my question?]
>
> thanks much for putting up with my ignorance/immaturity/idiocy/whatever
>
> cheers
>
> bart
> 74.5 RBB -- with new rear wheel cylinders since the old ones were
> frozen, i.e. deemed un-rebuild-able even by me :)
>
> In a message regarding "Re: rebuilding brake M/C", "D Stowe" writes:
> > I agree, you would be much further along with a new one. I've rebuilt
lots
> > of them, and found out later that the bores weren't true, etc. the cost
of
> > playing around, splashing brake fluid everywhere, then finding out
sometime
> > that the mc I rebuilt just failed while in traffic doesn't excite me as
much
> > as it used to. I would view most rebuilts as suspect too, unless they
had a
> > new brass sleeve put in.
> > the rear wheel cylinders are also the best deal in town, new ones cost
me 8
> > or 9 dollars, I've seen them cheaper. can't beat the price.
> >
> > Ted.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dave Wood" <djw69@idt.net>
> > To: "MGB" <mgs@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 8:48 PM
> > Subject: Re: rebuilding brake M/C
> >
> >
> > > Bart,
> > >
> > > I think the general consensus on rebuilding the brake master cylinder
is
> > to
> > > buy a new or rebuilt one rather that try to rebuild it yourself.
That was
> > > the advise I was given by a good lbc mechanic and I believe that it
has
> > been
> > > said on the list as well.
> > >
> > > Dave 72 B roadster
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Bart Niswonger <bart@cs.washington.edu>
> > > To: mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
> > > Date: Monday, March 06, 2000 7:49 PM
> > > Subject: rebuilding brake M/C
> > >
> > >
> > > >Howdy -- Thanks to all the folks who helped me decide to do the
entire
> > > >brake system at once! I found that (in addition to the gunk in the
> > > >front calipers) that one rear cylinder was completely frozen.
> > > >
> > > >I opted to have a go at rebuilding the various components, and have
> > > >had ok luck so far. The brake master cylinder has me a bit
perplexed
> > > >though. This is on a 74.5 MGB (RB) with the rectangular reservoir
> > > >(dual system?). According to my various books, I am supposed to
> > > >remove the ring from the piston and remove the spring, etc. My
> > > >problem is, how do I remove that ring? It does not appear to be
split
> > > >(I could be blind), and even if it is, how do I do it without
scoring
> > > >the piston?
> > > >
> > > >Thanks much for any additional help -- I am getting depressed
missing
> > > >all the sunny days in Seattle!
> > > >
> > > >cheers
> > > >
> > > >bart
> > > >74.5 RBB -- sans brake and clutch hydraulics
> > > >
> > >
> >
Dan Dwelley
77 Midget
Alexandria, Va.
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