How to check the regulator:
remove a coil lead
attach a amp meter in series with the battery
switch on your contact DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START!
After a while the ammeter will indicate more - less current going.
This is done by the voltage regulator and indicates good functionality
Cheers,
Hans
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric [mailto:eric@erickson.on.net]
Sent: donderdag 27 juli 2000 22:36
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: MG Electrics
And I will add... PLEASE check your voltage regulator. Related to this
list last year I first noticed that a low-beam headlight went out...
then both... then tail lights (high beam still worked - you don't use
them much, you see). When I got everything checked out I found the
voltage regulator had fried itself and I was feeding full voltage, of
course high voltage when driving, into these 12 volt devices.
The end result was replacing all lamps and lamp holders and probably a
shortened life for a lot of wiring that isn't playing up... yet.
Oh yeah, and a fried battery which has just now died much earlier than
it should have done.
I repeat the call to "check your voltage regulator"... just in case :-)
Eric
frank krajewski wrote:
>
> Mike: Check your voltage stabilizer.
> Frank "Swamp Yankee" Krajewski
> http://www.bmcne.com
>
> Mike Razor wrote:
>
> > Wow! What can happen with MG electrics. Did not have turn signals or
> > four way hazard flashers, only two of the four parking lights worked,
> > one fore and one aft on opposite ends of the car, left front and right
> > rear. Heater fan motor was working, but quit just prior to
> > installing a new four way flasher switch. Still no workee, drive
> > around and out of habit hit the turn signal, and they both start to
> > work, heater fan motor starts to work. Still no fore and aft parking
> > light and now no gauge lights, but got headlights and turn signals
> > Mike R
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