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Re: Shock help

To: Ajhsys@aol.com, "Larry" <larry@larryembrey.com>
Subject: Re: Shock help
From: "Peter C." <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 10:23:23 -0600
At 08:37 AM 12/11/2000, Ajhsys@aol.com wrote:
>   I don't know how he can keep quiet on these shock threads, but my
>guess is that he is curling this weekend.
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Exactly so!
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>Maybe Peter could refresh our memories on how to top up lever shox.
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My pleasure. First, the filler plug wrench size is 1/4" Whitworth. 14mm 
works. (we actually grind out 13mm wrenches). Second, you need only top 
them up if the oil is weeping/leaking, as it is wont to do. Third, unless 
they are very low on oil, you shouldn't need to bleed them. The space that 
you would be filling is more or less a reservoir. If you notice a change in 
"feel" after adding oil, then you do need to bleed them. (Best done on a 
bench) In fact, take care not to overfill as the "turret" on the front (MGB 
and Spridgets only) and the raised bit on the rear lid is meant to allow 
expansion as the oil heats while in hard use. (A and Healey fronts don't 
provide this space) If they are leaking, it will be at the shaft. Try to 
keep this clean, as the oil attracts grit that gets wet, and water and the 
grit will pit the shaft. The original sealing was (nearly) accomplished 
with a 2 lip rubber packing rather than a radial lip seal. There are also 
no bushings in the body, so getting lubrication to the packing is 
important. I suggest that the shocks were designed to weep oil, else why 
the maintenance of topping up? Where would the oil go? (I'd welcome 
discussion on that.)  Also, I would be suspicious of _original_ shocks that 
are very dry on the outside as they may be nearly so on the inside. This is 
getting too long. If you'd like to know about bench bleeding, etc. email me 
off list. Hope this helps.
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>Peter, how was the venison scrapple?
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Opted for venison brats. Maybe later. Thanks
         Peter

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