At 10:06 PM 4/11/2001 -0400, Steve Morris wrote:
>Gotta ask this again, as there were zero responses, ....
Well that was a little unusual. There are usually opinions enough to go
around (like mine for instance).
>The first surprise was a bright thin worn edge where the #2 exhaust valve
had been making very slight contact with the top of the head.
I presume you mean making contact with the top of the BLOCK.
>I would say no more than .005 inches deep. Sounds like there wasn't enough
valve clearance, but is it that close with standard parts?
No way. Not unless you have a high lift cam of a severely shaved head
(cylinder head that is). First measure the thickness of the head.
Original dimension is (was) 3.187 inches. Oringinal valve lift was .355.
I don't have a head loose to measure at the moment, but I seem to recall
the original chamber depth being about .420. That makes the valve head
clearance at full lift about .065 plus the thickness of the head gasket
(about .020 compressed).
>I also found the vacuum tube between the carb and the dizzy was just a
loose slip fit at the joint below that thingy in the middle of the tube
assembly (What is that thingy, anyway? An accumulator?)
That thingy, assuming it's original, is a fuel separator, intended to keep
fuel droplets from the carb throat from getting into the vacuum diaphram on
the dizzy. It should be mounted vertically with the end connected to the
cab pointing down, and the end connected to the dizzy pointing up.
>Any suggestion for reconnecting this joint for someone who does a lousy
job with a soldering gun? Super glue? JB Weld? Duct tape?
It was originally metal line all the way through, with the tubing soldered
to the fuel separator. If the tube has been cut, with the mating ends
being the same diameter, a push fit hose connector will work. Some people
cut the line there intentionally, as it makes it easy to remove part of the
line when working on either the carb or the dizzy, but not wanting to
disturb the other end.
1958 MGA with an attitude
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