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## Re: steering wheel shake

 To: "DenverD" , "David Councill" , Re: steering wheel shake Barney Gaylord Mon, 25 Jun 2001 15:56:38 -0500
 ```At 09:34 AM 6/25/2001 +0200, DenverD wrote: >.... >its not all the time...but almost all the time.. >.... >sometimes...say there is a slight bend in the road and a pressure is applied to turn ever so slightly the shake *might* go away during the turn.. > >or, sometime for NO apparent reason it just fades away to completely smooth...and then maybe five seconds later comes back.. This is an indication that there is a bit of a problem with both front tires. It may be either out of balance or out of plane. Tires are not exactly the same diameter, so as they rotate one will turn slightly faster than the other. When the two wheels are in sync the shake from each is reinforcing, and you notice the shake in the steering wheel. When the two tires are out of sync by 180 degrees the shake can be self-cancelling, and it can run perfectly smooth for a while. The frequency with which the shake comes and goes depends on the difference in diameter of the tires, but it will be a regular pattern while driving in a straight line. You may expect this to repeat at intervals of 10 to 30 seconds. Also traveling around a gentle curve changes the differential rotation of the tires because of the different travel radius, so the time pattern will also change. Under the right conditions through a curve the car can run smooth continuously until youi exit the curve, or it may shake continuously in the curve, or the repeat frequency may change to much more often. Jack up the front of the car and spin the wheels by hand. Check to see if they wobble latterally or radially at the tread. If they run true within 1/8 inch, then the problem is probably out of balance. However, in rare cases a tire can run appearently true when suspended in the air, and then thump or wobble when it has a load on it. This is a problem with a carcass failure or abberation of carcass construction. For a mild condition of this type there are some tire service shops with computerized equipment that can map the rotation and "lift" of the tire when running under load, and then selectively grind some of the tread in order to make the tire run true under load. This can work to cure a radial wobble, but not for a latteral wobble. The service can also be cost prohibitive, so as long as yout tires are not too expensive you may do as well just buying new tires. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.) ```
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