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Re: oil pressure guage

To: "james" <jamesnazarian@netzero.net>,
Subject: Re: oil pressure guage
From: David Councill <dcouncil@imt.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:44:52 -0600
Now that I think about it - and maybe its relevant to the whole question I 
brought up - is that I've always had this habit of tapping on the side of 
the oil pressure gauge on both my 71BGTs. Typically this would be at 
cruising speed when the oil pressure would run a bit low (~60 psi) and 
tapping on the gauge would cause a slight increase (to maybe ~70 psi). I 
don't ever recall doing that with my 67BGT or the 65B I had in college.

It looks like I'll go with the mechanical gauge when I get my 72B 
assembled, which is at least a couple of months away, maybe longer.

David


At 08:28 PM 5/20/2002 -0600, james wrote:
>IMO, part of my decision would be because of the slow reaction of the
>electric gauge.  I have heard them referred to, more than once, as pressure
>indicators (yes/no) rather than gauges.  It is hard to know, after 30 years
>what pressure you really have, versus what the electric gauge is telling
>you.  Since it is an electrical signal, I would expect the condition of the
>wiring to/from the gauge to make a big difference in your reading.
>
>james
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Dodd, Kelvin <doddk@mossmotors.com>
>To: 'David Councill' <dcouncil@imt.net>; <mgs@autox.team.net>
>Sent: 20 May, 2002 9:43 AM
>Subject: RE: oil pressure guage
>
>
> > David:
> >
> > I don't have an answer as to why MG changed to the mechanical guage,
> > it could have been warranty related.
> > The electrical sender did have a high failure rate and was extremely
> > expensive to replace.  I'm remembering about $95.00 from the dealer back
>in
> > the 80s.  It was discontinued by Smiths, so many owners had to do without
>or
> > convert to mechanical.
> >
> > There are a couple of repros out on the market now which are
> > reasonably priced and seem to be dependable so 68-71 owners don't have to
> > scrounge used units, or convert.
> >
> >
> > You are correct, the flex line connects to a fitting on the
> > firewall, instead of the sender unit.  The block fitting is the same.
> >
> > The mechanical units are pretty dependable and as accurate as
> > necessary.  Be sure to replace the leather seal at the guage if you undo
>the
> > copper line.
> >
> >
> > K.

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