Perfectly understandable, but the fuse wire in these is over an inch long,
even 20kV or so from the ignition coil couldn't jump the end caps or even
keep an arc going. I've got fuses labelled 250v which are less than half
that length. The lowest voltage quoted on that site is 125 volts (and the
others are all round numbers), also quite reasonable. 32 volts is a
ridiculously low voltage to quote for those fuses, as well as being a very
odd value. Blade fuses have the same rating even though the spades are much
closer together. It seems to me that someone has labelled all automotive
fuses as '32 volt' which is perhaps nothing more than a typical maximum of
24v plus a safety factor, without any regard to what they are actually safe
at. None of my fuses show a voltage rating, only a current rating. The
upshot is that you can fit any fuse of the correct physical dimensions *and
current rating* regardless of its notional voltage rating.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> The voltage rating of the fuse must be greater than or equal to the
> circuit voltage. Because the fuse has such low resistance, the voltage
> rating becomes critical only when the fuse is trying to open. The fuse
> must be able to open quickly, extinguish the arc after the fuse element
> has melted and prevent the system open-circuit voltage from restriking
> across the open fuse element.
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