Although we have not removed the "one shot " oiling system on the cars
that we service regularly, it is our recommendation that it never be used.
We grease the kingpin bushes with a #2 thickness, high quality chassis
grease every 1,000 to 1,500 miles. The "zerk" fitting that is located on
the stub axle shoots grease into the open area inside the tube that carries
the bronze bushes and in between the upper and the lower bush. This grease
will lubricate BOTH bushes and it is not necessary to use the oiler at all.
The only reason we recommend leaving it on the car is: 1. . originality, and
2. so if you are on a trip of longer than 1500 miles and want to lube the
suspension, it is not necessary to carry a grease gun. The oiler should
only be used in this case and it should be used when first starting the
engine, while the oil is dead cold. Depress the button and watch the oil
pressure gauge. It will initially drop, maybe 10 # or so. Hold the button
depressed until the oil pressure starts to come back up, (this means that
the oil lines to the front suspension have filled with oil and are starting
to pressurize) then immediately release the button. The oil that has filled
the lines to the front suspension will trickle down into the kingpin without
washing out the grease that is still there and contribute to the lube.
Grease again with real grease as soon as is convenient. pump grease until
it appears between the lower coils of the front springs above the damper
blade thrust plate. Wipe the excess grease out from between the coils and
anywhere else in this area. Only the grease inside the stub axle and that
under the damper blade thrust plate
serves any lubricating function, the rest is excess. Keep the disc,
caliper, and pads completely free of any grease or oil. We clean them in
lacquer thinner or with acetone. Minor amounts of grease can be removed
from the pads by soaking, then sun drying and sanding on a flat piece of 80
grit sandpaper. If the pads have soaked up a lot of oil, and are organic
pads, they should be replace. Semi- metallic or metallic or carbon of
carbon kevlar pads don't seem to be so absorbent and are easier to clean.
The disc can be roughed up with emery cloth stapled to a flat piece of wood
or with an abrasive disc on a electric drill of die grinder. Be careful to
only roughen the surface. Don't created high and low areas of waviness on
the disc surface.
Regards, Greg Solow
----- Original Message -----
From: <TrmpetDave@aol.com>
To: <Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com>; <morgans@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 05, 1999 10:17 PM
Subject: Re: Brakes
>
> In a message dated 9/2/99 1:27:28 AM, Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com writes:
>
> <<
>
>
> I have recently had some issues with the front brakes pulling to one side.
> There is no sign that the pistons are sticking. I did wonder about grease
> on the disks (bearing in mind the amount of it there is near by) but there
> is nothing to suggest that. When I look at the disks there is a distinct
> glaze on the surface, although not more on one side than the other.
Someone
> told me it is a common affect with asbestos free pads and that it can lead
> to brakes pulling.
>
> Does anyone have similar experience?
>
> What is going on? Is there anything I can do to get rid of it (short of
> replacing the disks and the pads)? Can I stop it coming back?
> >>
>
> This was more of a problem with my +8 before the oil lines to the front
> suspension were plugged off. Once, when a slow-moving car abruptly veered
> into my lane just in front of me (I was going about 60 mph), I did a 180
> ground loop and fetched up against the median barrier, doing extensive
> damage. I think it is due to oil and grease. I take off the wheels, and
take
> out the brake pads and wire-brush them with brake cleaner and clean off
the
> discs with the same stuff, and pressure-hose the grease out of the springs
> and calipers. This helps a little, but the most effective move was to plug
> the one-shot oil lines.
>
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