Rudy, et al.,
In addition to Bob's excellent advice, I would suggest that, before screwing
the screws into the wood, you run the threads over some wax, either a candle
or paraffin canning wax. This puts a very thin layer of wax on the surface
of the threads and greatly reduces friction. I speak from experience
(although the idea didn't originate with me). I have no proof, but I would
think that there is enough friction to soften the wax sufficiently to coat
the threads sufficiently and also provides a barrier between the wood and
the metal.
You may also check out what Lee Valley Tools has available in the way of
screws. Lee Valley Tools is one of those rare companies that exist for the
benefit of the craftsman and gardener, not to maximize profits to the owner.
At one time they carried Spax screws, but I have not seen them in this
year's catalog. These have a serrated edge at the threads and are said to
reduce friction. The Lee Valley catalog states that "... they can be driven
into solid birch or maple without pre-drilling." (not that I would advise
this, but it does make a point).
>From another Lee Valley catalog, I quote the following: "The effect of high
humidity, salt water or chemically treated timber on fasteners can be
significant. For maximum durability and unstained surfaces, either with
exterior projects or in boatbuilding, the use of copper, brass, stainless
steel or silicon bronze is recommended. For areas where the rain is acidic,
or if the wood has been treated with arsenates (such as on sidings or
decks), stainless steel is best. Our stainless steel are nickel/chromium.
The #304 and #305 stainless steel provide adequate protection in most
outdoor applications. The #316 stainless steel provides the best resistance
to seawater [or, probably, road salt, my comment] as it has more nickel and
2% to 3% molybdenum. Silicon bronze contains no iron, so will not leave
rust marks. Our silicon bronze nails have annular ring threads to maximize
holding power and resistance to withdrawal." (1998/99 catalog, p. 113)
You can check this company out at http://www.leevalley.com
I have no connection with them, but I can't resist shopping in one of their
stores.
Chuck Vandergraaf
'52 +4
Pinawa, MB
> ----------
> From: Bob Nogueira[SMTP:nogera@prodigy.net]
> Reply To: Bob Nogueira
> Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 1999 6:36 PM
> To: re3@ix.netcom.com; aMORGANS@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: wood frame question
>
> -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] --
>
> Rudy
> Some will say stainless steel but SS is not as strong as mild steel .
> Brass
> is too soft for the hard ash wood. You will end up breaking the screw off
> in the hole or will have to drill a hole so oversized to keep from
> breaking
> the screw it won't hold . I used plated mild steel with the
> justification that if the screw got wet enough to rust it really wasn't
> going to matter because the wood would be rotted and the sheet metal long
> gone by that time .
> The factory glued all the vertical joints but not the horizontal joints (
> I
> may have that backwards ) .I glued all my joints and have not seen any
> problem as a result.
> Now get out there and screw around with that Morgan !!!
> Bob Nogueira
> -------- REPLY, Original message follows --------
>
> > Date: Tuesday, 12-Oct-99 09:04 AM
> >
> > From: re3@ix.netcom.com \ Internet: (re3@ix.netcom.com)
> > To: MORGANS \ Internet: (morgans@autox.team.net)
> >
> > Subject: wood frame question
> >
> > I have a 1967 plus 4, 4 seater, and am in the midst of a ground up
> restoration.
> > I am doing the
> > frame at this time and have a few questions:
> > 1. What type of screws should I be using? At this point I am using
> silicon
> > bronze screws but
> > wonder if I should us stainless steel instead?
> >
> > 2. Does anyone glue the frame together or is glue a bad idea?
> >
> > 3. I need a picture of how the rear braces to the left and right of the
> spare
> > fit in place. They were gone on my car and I have purchased them new
> from
> the
> > factory but do not know their exact location.
> >
> > That's it for today,
> > Thank you,
> > Rudy
> >
> >
> >
>
> -------- REPLY, End of original message --------
>
>
>
>
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