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RE: exhaust manifold and more

To: "Morganeers" <morgans@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: exhaust manifold and more
From: "Melvyn Rutter" <Melvyn@rutter.clara.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 19:16:24 +0100
Saw the message about manifolds, you never know what Melvyn R. has on his
shelves !!
Last cast iron manifolds for the Plus 8 4 speed we had on our used scheme
were £80 each, bead blasted and with new studs.
The Man From Hallingbury  /  HE SAY YES !!

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-morgans@autox.team.net
[mailto:Behalf Of Jeremy Edwards
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2000 11:14 PM
To: Gerjan van de Walle
Cc: morgans@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: exhaust manifold and more


Gerjan van de Walle <gerjan.vandewalle@village.uunet.be> writes
>
>1. Both exhaust manifolds each have a large crack in the middle, almost
>splitting the manifold in two halves. Now I was told that the manifolds
>of this particular type were not available anymore. There are two
>numbers on each manifold:
> 612601  and  K WYF J5090.
>Are these manifolds still available??? And if so, where can I buy them?
>
>Are there any major parts suppliers in the UK or on the European
>continent?

Can I suggest that you contact Melvyn Rutter- he isn't the cheapest but
if it exists, he will probably have them. Any of the other agents would
be worth contacting, but I have found him to be helpful and well
organised for export. There is a website, but I cannot remember the URL.
The factory also is worth asking, but they will not now sell direct to
owners, you need to go through an agent.

>
>2. The car also vibrates enormously at around 80 km/h (50 m/h). The
>whole front of the car vibrates vigourously and it really dangourous to
>to drive at that speed. The wheels have been balanced, the front
>suspension has been overhauled, but without success. Now a damper has
>been mounted between steering arm and chassis and this helpes a bit. But
>the real ploblem is still there. Does anyone have a clue?

This is the dreaded Morgan wheel wobble, which most of us will have
experienced from time to time. You have already got a recommendation for
Fred Sissons book, which I would endorse, but I would add these notes I
wrote some time ago, circa 1997!


"With everything set up properly, there won't be any, but tracking down
the one thing that is doing it on any particular car can be a pain. With
mine it was tyres out of round, (flats on the tyres from lack of use),
and worn damper blade shims. Colin Musgrove in his book "Moggy" makes a
few helpful suggestions, but to condense half a chapter it came to:-

        (i)     Adjust the damper blade shims to stop the damper moving
                fore and aft along the car, but not so tight as the
                damper can't move in and out.
        (ii)    If you have any difficulty with this, replace the damper
                blades and shims with new- they can wear quite badly.
        (iii)   Have the front wheels balanced properly- splined wire
                wheels require the correct hub adapter or else!
        (iv)    Check the tracking.
        (v)     Make sure the cross frame bolts are tight, the king pins
                greased and the brakes not dragging.

After that little lot, make sure the wheels and tyres are round- not as
daft as it sounds- buckled wheels after being kerbed, tyres out of round
after standing too long, cord failure in the tyre all can happen. Then
check the steering gear- duff track rod end perhaps, freeplay in the
drop link?

After that little lot, black magic and prayer!

Personally, IMO most bad shimmy is the product of a number of the above
factors.

Happy Hunting- It took me a month."


--
Jeremy Edwards



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