How many miles are on the truck before it warms up <G> :>).
At 07:40 PM 2/4/99 Thursday -0700, The Hansons wrote:
> I will certainly take the doors off now but what side of the hinges
>should
>I attack. The guy I had bought the truck from was trying to remove the D/S
>door but had screwed up from what he told me. Needless to say the door is
>hanging by the top hinge. Do I need to go at it from the side attached to
>the door or the kick panel.?
> Also all the talk about the camel hump heads has raised yet another
>question. The 270 that came in the truck apparently knocks but has been
>rebuilt with just 50 miles on it after it warms up. I have no idea why and
>have considered a trade with a farmer down the road for his 327 with camel
>hump heads.(straight across). I have already purchased a 283 from a '62
>Apache with 60thousand and thought of replacing just the gaskets, plugs,
>wires and fuel pump(we broke while pulling). I plan to run the 283 until I
>put money into the 350 block I have and get it like I want it. Is the trade
>worth it and if so should I run the 283 or the 327 until the 350 is set up
>for show? Any help and suggestions appreciated. Or just plain opinions are
>welcomed too!!!
>
>Thanks,
>Christian '59 GMC
>150 napco stepside
>
>----------
>> From: Brad Newman <bkn@cyberramp.net>
>> To: The Hansons <dustyrose@mcn.net>
>> Cc: Lewis Osborn <losborn@teleport.com>; oletrucks@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Test - Plus a Question
>> Date: Thursday, February 04, 1999 6:40 AM
>>
>> The Hansons wrote:
>>
>> > This is a very good question and I would like to know the same
>> > answers. My
>> > fiancee's parents have a garage with a low ceiling and I am unable to
>> > move
>> > the frame in the garage with the cab on it since removing the engine.
>> > We
>> > have discussed having four friends come out to the house to help but
>> > that
>> > is a task by itself. Should I remove the doors and front windshield
>> > prior
>> > to help eliminate some weight? The windshield will be replaced and one
>> > door
>> > also. If I should remove the doors prior, what is the best way of
>> > attacking
>> > the hinges? I am new at this whole restoring thing and there may be
>> > more
>> > stupid questions to follow. Thanks for the suggestions in advance.
>> >
>> > Christian
>> > '59 GMC 3/4 ton napco stepside
>> >
>> > ----------
>> > > From: Lewis Osborn <losborn@teleport.com>
>> > > To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
>> > > Subject: [oletrucks] Test - Plus a Question
>> > > Date: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 8:30 AM
>> > >
>> > > Now that all of the test messages have started to roll, I've got a
>> > > thought. How about putting a hint in the body of the test message?
>> > > Some little trick that you've found that makes something easier.
>> > >
>> > > Or, even a question. <G> Here's mine: I know this was discussed
>> > not
>> > > that long ago on the list, but I've been unable to come up with the
>> > > right key words to find it. How heavy is the cab on a '40 Chev PU?
>> > I'm
>> > > trying to decide how to lift mine off of the chassis. I'm going to
>> > have
>> > > a problem lifting from overhead, so I'm thinking about jacking it
>> > up,
>> > > kind of like the way a house mover lifts a house, rolling the
>> > chassis
>> > > out from under it, then rolling a support framework underneath and
>> > > letting it down on it.
>> > >
>> > > 2) What's the easiest way to roll the cab, so the bottom of it can
>> > be
>> > > prepped?
>> > >
>> > > Thanks,
>> > > Lewis - K7LVO Valley of the Rogue-Medford, OR
>> > > "The Forty" - 40 Chevy PU - One Owner
>> > > http://www.teleport.com/~losborn/1940.html
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
>> > 1959
>> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
>> > 1959
>>
>> For what its worth, I thought that I would throw my 2 cents in on the
>> topic of removing cabs.
>> I don't know exactly how much the cab on a my 40 weighs, but I do know
>> that it is much lighter than the cab on my 49. I was able to lift and
>> move the 40, with the doors still on, without any problemwith the help
>> of 3 other guys. The 49 on the other hand was a beast. The same 3 guys
>> and myself could barely budge it, so we ended up removing the doors and
>> enlisting the help of 2 other guys that were standing around
>> supervising.
>> We put the cab on some home made saw horses (very short), and painted
>> the firewall first. For the underside, we laid out a couple of pieces of
>> old carpet and just pushed the cab over on it (on its back) to where we
>> had a good view of the underside. Once these two areas were finished, we
>> put the cab back on truck, using the same 4 or 6 guys as when we removed
>> it. Once the cab was back on the frame and secured, then we finished
>> painting the interior/exterior/doors etc. We thought that doing it like
>> this would help eliminate scratching the cab as we put it back on the
>> truck.
>> Anyway, I hope this helps, or at least gives ya'll some ideas. I haven't
>> done a TF yet, but that will change this weekend when I repay one of the
>> guys that helped me remove my cab(s) by helping him tear down his 55
>> 2nd. As far as I know, we are going to do it the same way as we did
>> mine, so if anyone is interested, I can let you know how it compared to
>> the others.
>> Brad
>>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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