Paul, you need to RAISE the rear end so that the pinion angle is between
1 & 3 degrees above level. The engine should tilt down, front to back
the same degree angle. This will put the centerlines parallel, but not
necessarily in a straight line. These recommendations are from Chassis
Engineering in the spec sheet that I got when I ordered my rear leaf
spring kit. And Sam on Shadetree Mechanic basically said the same thing
during his hot rod truck project. In fact I got into an interesting
conversation with him at an auto show on this subject (pinion angles and
rear end configurations). I set mine with an electronic protractor that
I use at work that reads in 10ths of a degree, but no need to be so
precise. One of those bubble type angle finders will suffice. Lacking
that, you can figure the angle trigonometrically by taking the sin of
2.5 degrees (.0436) and multiply that by, say, 10 inches (.436) and
that's how much rise a 2.5 degree angle will produce in that 10"
distance (approx. 7/16").
Wally
Paul Blosser wrote:
>
> Ok, I'm getting ready to set the rearend under my truck and have heard
> about as many ways as there can possible be to set pinion angle. I've
> looked at the article on the ClassicTruck.com (i.e engine oil rail and
> pinion centerline parallel). I've got the instructions from a No Limit
> Engineering videotape (push pinion down 2-3 degrees below level). I've
> never done this before, although I've read about it -- I need to know
> what is the best/correct method.
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