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Re: [oletrucks] Replacing Door Weatherstripping

To: jay@duncanson.com, oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Replacing Door Weatherstripping
From: Hudson29@aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 16:05:34 EST
In a message dated 12/02/1999 10:11:56 PM, jay@duncanson.com writes:

<< Two questions:

1) Would it make sense to glue the two ends of the rubber together BEFORE 
starting, and then installing it around the door, as if stretching a rubber 
band? Perhaps it could be stretched around the door a couple of inches away 
from it's proper location, the adhesive could be installed, and when tacky 
the rubber strip could be moved to its proper position. Does that make sense 
to you, since you've gone thru the exercise?

This makes a lot of sense. Just remember that the glue takes an inordinate 
amount of time to fully tack (at least it does in the icy 70 degree temps of 
a SoCal winter), so you need to think about how you can hold the stripping 
away from the door until this happens. You sure don't want to have to stand 
there and hold it. Be aware also that the rubber needs to be loose to make 
those tight bands just at the bottom of the door, if you have the stripping 
under tension, it will try to pull loose.

<<2) Do you recommend using the clear coat over the color? Did you choose the 
Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel (number 7701), or a different one? >>

I'm of two minds about the clear coat. I love the finish it made on smaller 
parts like the door window reveals, but it may actally have added to the 
mottled effect on big surfaces like the door interiors. I suggest you shoot 
some test patches on parts or even cardboard. I used the first clear coat 
that came to hand in the store, Color Decor Interior/Exterior Spray Enamel 
CDS-12 Clear. I have little doubt that the Rustoleum would work just as well 
or better.

Paul O'Neil, Hudson29@aol.com
1951 Chevrolet 3600 Pickup Project, See it at:
The Poor Man's Advanced Design Tech Tips Page
http://home.earthlink.net/~conntest47/
Fullerton, California USA
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