Hi David,
I guess it's possible, but I doubt it. Since the drive shaft doesn't
contact the torque tube or the slip end, I can't see how putting it into
gear will do anything. I'll be the first to admit, however, that reason is
an indifferent guide to auto mechanics.
Maybe if it spun for a while, the heat would do something. A better way to
use heat would be heating the slip end (but not the torque tube) with a
torch so the end would expand away from the tube and break the rust bond.
If the hear warps the end, though, it'll have leaks.
Tapping it with a hammer might also loosen it, but if it goes out of round,
it'll leak.
Regards,
Grant S. gls@4link.net
-----Original Message-----
From: David <dstiles@rmi.net>
To: G. Simmons <gls@4link.net>; john r dorsey <jrdorsey@strato.net>;
bkn6@airmail.net <bkn6@airmail.net>; oletrucks@autox.team.net
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] gear grinding continued
>Would it be possible to just put it in gear and break it loose that way
>
>> Hi Brad,
>>
>> >How in the world does the torque tube separate from the tranny? All
>> > of the bolts are off, the tranny mount is off, and the collar is
>> > "unscrewed", but its still tight as a drum.
>>
>> I had this exact problem a couple of years ago. The slip end gets rusted
>to
>> the shaft or something. I solved it after much puzzling by getting a
>> long-handled pipe wrench (about 4' long) to give me enough torque to
twist
>> the slip end free. Once it begins to move, you'll have no trouble.
>>
>> My one regret is that the wrench left teeth marks in the slip end. Maybe
>a
>> smooth jawed wrench would have worked, but I think the teeth were needed
>to
>> get a grip. Try with smooth jaws or a rag wrapping before you put teeth
>on
>> the metal.
>>
>> > I have taken the ball and fork out, and think that I am ready to drop
>> > the tranny (I wish that I had the guide pins that the shop manual
>> > speaks of),
>>
>> Make guide pins from long bolts with the heads cut off and the shaft ends
>> beveled on your grinder. Be sure to chase the holes first and use lots
of
>> lube so you can loosen them with your fingers.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Grant S. gls@4link.net
>>
>>
>>
>> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>>
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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