I would avoid 10w40. 10W40 is actually a 10 weight oil with vicosity
improvers and winterized. The improvers and the higher ash content will
clog up your rings according to General Motors. It will void the new engine
warranty! I learned of this when I worked the parts dept. at a dealership
in Arizona about 10 or 12 years ago.And if you have cast iron pistons, i
would think about sticking to a straight vis. oil like 30 weight and 20
weight in the winter in colder places.
Steve wrote:
> Grant
>
> Back in about 1980 (Gee has it been that long?) I was
> finishing up the engine rebuild on my 63 Vette. I
> contacted Mobil and talked to some of their technical
> people. Their recommendation was to use "regular" oil
> until the engine was broken in. They said they
> experienced excessive oil consumption when trying to
> break in an engine with Mobil 1. They also said there
> biggest complaint from customers was oil leakage
> (because oil is so thin).
>
> I would switch to 10w-30 or 10w-40 and see what
> happens.
>
> Good luck.
>
>
>
> --- Grant Galbraith <trks@javanet.com> wrote:
> > I have about 13 K on my 235 that was rebuilt with
> > all new parts, bored
> > with new pistons, cast rings and bearings as well as
> > cam, cam gears,
> > etc... I've noticed since I took it out of storage
> > after a highway run
> > it will smoke from the breather tube and vents in
> > the valve cover so
> > much so that smoke is billowing out from under the
> > truck. I've always
> > used 5-30 Mobil 1 synthetic and changed it again,
> > the 5th oil change
> > after noticing the smoke, still smoking. I know bad
> > rings can cause
> > blow-by but wouldn't expect it on such a recent
> > rebuild. Any Ideas?
> >
> > Thanks, Grant
> > 50 Chevy 3100
> > 52 GMC 150
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
> > between 1941 and 1959
> >
> Do You Yahoo!?
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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