Harbor Freight has engine stands for $39 that's what I used
HooT58
----- Original Message -----
From: "dpewter" <dpewter@msn.com>
To: "Chico Woodhill" <chico_woodhill@punkass.com>;
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Engine Removal
> I did my first engine rebuild with a set of wooden blocks to hold the
engine
> block while I cleaned & reassembled, but a real hassle when needing to
flip
> the block (like to put crank in, then back to put pistons & rods in, then
> back to attach rods to crank----you get the idea). Buy a $50 stand, but
> heed the earlier threads warnings about center of gravity & footing of the
> stand. I rented a hoist the first time, borrowed a hoist the second time
> (to buy is $200 or more). I now own one, but wish I got one that the
> outriggers collapse on (mine stays assembled & takes up a LOT of room).
>
> Regards,
> Doug Pewterbaugh
> dpewter@msn.com
> Denton, TX
> 49 3104 216 5-window
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chico Woodhill" <chico_woodhill@punkass.com>
> To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 3:06 PM
> Subject: [oletrucks] Engine Removal
>
>
> > I'm pulling the 235 splasher from my '49 3100 to paint both engine and
> > firewall. The fenders and radiator are off. Questions:
> >
> > How much does the engine weigh?
> >
> > Where should I connect the hoist chain?
> >
> > I want to put it into a pickup bed for transit. Should I construct some
> kind
> > of mount or bed, or just lay it on its side? Will the oil pan dent if I
do
> > this?
> >
> > Are there any decent (i.e., cheaper) alternatives to buying an engine
> stand
> > for the work?
> >
> > Thanks...
> >
> > Chico
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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