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Re: [oletrucks] Motor mount question

To: "Ryan Sain" <rsain@gte.net>, "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Motor mount question
From: "Gary Perry" <glperry@fwi.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 16:39:59 -0500
Ryan, I have done little in swaps but let me try. Most of the mounts offered
are all the same ones, just different distributors. There is the common tube
type that dips under engine, has square plates to bolt on to frame and weld
tube into once positioned correct. This has bolt tubes for a single bolt
that goes thru the rubber/metal mount on engine sides.  Others have mounts
made of plates welded up and can be either welded on type or some have more
metal and can be drilled and bolted to top and bottom of frame. Mounts to
engine about same. You will also need a trans X-over to handle the tail of
trans. Some are just channel bolted to frame or some are tube type that dips
down like engine one. You need both mounts to make a tri-angle 3pt mount
system. Old sixes used One in front of engine and two on bellhousings to get
same three-point mount, and usually none on trans tail.
  You should drop the engine/trans down on frame about where you want, have
body on to check firewall clearance, steering gear on to check clearance of
exhaust there and radiator set in to check forward clearance. The angle it
all sets should be judged also by the angle of the rear pionion on
differential. These have a rating/ratio that should be set up. In other
words, NOT real steep on trans end and shallow tilt on differential end.
Seems like they have to be within 1 or 2 degress of being same angle.
Completely straight is not good, the u-joints have to move at angles to get
the grease to move in them and lube.
  I'm pretty sure there is some tech on this at www.chevytrucks.org or
www.stovebolt.com web sites. These are real life experiences from someone
doing what you are doing. Dont rush into it, if not right, can cause
vibrations and clearance interferences later on as you go.
 One thing, seems like if the carb base is pretty level, it should be about
right. If you have carb off engine, you can use a level on that flat spot.
The engine and trans should have a natural slant then and be close to
correct.  There! Best I can do, check those other sites.

G. L. Grumpy's
Old Iron Ranch
Huntington, IN 46750
AD trucks and MM tractors
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Sain" <rsain@gte.net>
To: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 10:57 AM
Subject: [oletrucks] Motor mount question


> Hi all,
>
> I'll try this again...
>
> We have one last thing to do before the frame goes
> to paint. And that is to fit the motor/tranny.
>
> We have a 283 and would like to use side motor mounts. There are MANY
> sources out there for these - any recommendations?
>
> And a technical question: When using the side mounts, is the motor
> automatically set at the proper slope (front to back)? Or do I need to
> adjust for that when I weld the suckers in place?
>
> TIA
>
> - Ryan
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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