I too remember those bolts having a shallow head, and also just a small
shoulder on them as well, come to think of it.
I have a 235 flywheel/pressureplate and disc in the shop, later today I'll lay
it on the bench and take a closer look at things and compare with a standard
bolt.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
>From: kinderlehrer@comcast.net
>Sent: Dec 4, 2008 12:41 PM
>To: Robert Baird <bairdr54@sbcglobal.net>, Mike B <passnb4u@earthlink.net>
>Cc: Kinderlehrer <Kinderlehrer@comcast.net>, oletrucks
><oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] 235 engine problems - another update
>
>Thanks Mike and Robert, that's good information. The bolts that came out
>seemed to have very shallow heads, one of the reasons they were difficult to
>remove. Is there a clearance issue I should worry about? Bob
>
>
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
>From: Robert Baird <bairdr54@sbcglobal.net>
>> Mike B wrote:
>> The only retainers I have every seen on the flay wheel bolts on these
>> old trucks are the Star Washers that are on the flay wheel bolts.
>> Like Mike said torque the bolts to specification and all will be wel
>>
>>
>> These Specification are taken from the 1954 Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual
>> Page 6-33
>> Fly Wheel Bolt Torque 50-65 ft. lb. Fly Wheel runout should is not be
>> greater than .008 for conventional, automatic. is .005
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > Hey Bob,
>> >
>> > You'rs would be the first that I've seen retainers on the flywheel...for
>sure
>> they are not needed with proper torque...I wouldn't worry about them at all,
>> just torque the flywheel to spec, and run it.
>> >
>> > I don't think the flywheel bolts (to the crank) are special, just grade8
>> should be fine...it's the outer bolts holding on the pressure plate that
>have a
>> little "lip" up by the head of the bolt, that are important...any tranny
>shop
>> should be able to hook you up for those.
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