I sandblasted mine used a sealing self etching primer and painted with
Eastwood
detail silver and they held up just fine. Carl E.
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul A Asgeirsson <pasgeirsson@juno.com>
To: Lancer7676@aol.com <Lancer7676@aol.com>
Cc: ulix@u.washington.edu <ulix@u.washington.edu>;
Andrew.Griffith@ReadRite.com <Andrew.Griffith@ReadRite.com>;
robert@woozy.com <robert@woozy.com>; spridgets@autox.team.net
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, February 11, 1999 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: special treatment??
>
>On Thu, 11 Feb 1999 19:00:44 EST Lancer7676@aol.com writes:
>>In a message dated 2/11/99 11:40:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>>ulix@u.washington.edu writes:
>>
>><< I don't know if you guys are using primer or not.
>> I sandblasted my steel rims, then painted with silver engine paint,
>>then
>> baked. The paint is not very durable, and (probably because I didn't
>>use
>> primer) the wheels are rusting. >>
>>
>>Ulix--
>
>Bare metal painting in areas that will be exposed to hostile elements
>requires some special treatment. Bare metal should be etched. Can be
>etched with some of the new 2 part epoxy primers at the same time you
>prime. DP40 by PPG will do this. It's also a moisture barrier. Many
>primers are not. Some primers will attract moisture and promote rust.
>Likely most rattle can types will. DP40 costs about $40 per quart so you
>can see the likely difference in chemistry and material content compared
>to rattle cans. Sandable primers shouldn't be used on bare metal. Put
>it on top of the etching primers and or moisture barriers.
>
>Many inexpensive paints and some rattle can paints have very porous
>surfaces. Just because it's paint doesn't mean it forms an impermeable
>surface.
>
>Good luck on the repaint.
>
>Paul
>PAsgeirsson@juno.com
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