spridgets
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Re: Engine rebuild??

To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Engine rebuild??
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 23:34:26 -0500
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
References: <20010713045301.72470.qmail@web11702.mail.yahoo.com>
Don't use stainless fasteners in critical areas as they may also fail.
BTW, the MGA head is on and correct new studs were used (ARP) and I still felt a
couple stretch.  You know the feeling when the torque wrench never clicks but
just keeps turning.  I may replace those studs one at a time.
The MG now runs like a champ.  As soon as I've run in the engine, it's look out
Barney!!  ;-)

Well, gotta sign off for awhile TTY next Friday...have a good week.
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500

Ron Soave wrote:

> In addition to your Haynes/Bentley manual, pick up a
> general book on engine rebuidling for $15 at any book
> store.  They are far more informative, and offer a lot
> of great BTDT ideas, and explain stuff like 3 angle
> valve jobs, etc.  A couple of micrometers and a dial
> indicator to check clearances, diameters, cylinder
> taper, end float, cam geometry, can remove a lot of
> suspense, too.  One obvious thing that a lot of people
> don't do in their zeal is to carefully untorque
> critical bolts, like bearing shell bolts, head bolts,
> etc.  Just crack them first in a logical order before
> significantly loosening them to be safe and prevent
> warping.  And don't go nuts with Grade 8 hardware -
> it's very brittle, right Dave?
>
> =====
> Ron Soave
>
> The optimist says the glass is half full.
> The pessimist says the glass is half empty.
> The engineer says the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.
> The British car owner says it's leaking.



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