I'm sure you're right about all of it, especially the air trapped under the
bonnet. I think I'd still want to try out the larger pulley to see if it
helped any, and then put some spacers under the hinges to see what
improvement it might make. My thoughts were to try simple and economic
approaches to finding a remedy. He has a 3 row core which I find very
effective in my Bugeye, but I think I'd upgrade further to a 4 row. I think
there's a radiator shop in my area that can make one of those up pretty
reasonably (<$150).
Gerard
At 1:46 PM -0400 9/28/01, Kansa, Robert wrote:
>yeah..and allot of suggestions too..
>lets be real here..
>its-a-like-a-this..stock parts are made to handle stock situations..
>yeah the 5 ringers are gonna give off a little more heat..but really now
>how much compaired to the real problem..
>more HP = more Heat
>he needs cooling capacity, and thats all there is to it..
>first of all our engines really are kinda small, and theres not much
>interior suface to these things to begin with.
>add a bunch of heat to a small surface area, your gonna havta add ALLOT
>more cooling. he's gonna havta get a bigger radiator..something more
>efficient with more capacity and more area. either find something thats
>gonna fit...(and after a 2 year search theres only 1 radiator out of a
>scirroccco that will possibly fit, and thats NOT the "hot rod shop" long
>one. but even my scirrocco rad wont handle more than 120hp i bet..i would
>have to go larger yet.
> OR.... get one cu$tom made..whomph..or just give in to the fact your
>gonna have to do some cutting and fitting..and have a semi custom one by a
>company like Griffin, or a larger one from somewhere else..
>
>the old stock radiators are only gonna handle about 100 hp without saying
>goodbye..they are only sized for how many original hp?...yeah...kinda
>small isnt it..
>and the pump is probably on the edge too..its only so big and can only
>push so much water..no matter WHAT size pulley
>
>then the chassis is gonna have to breath...look at it this way..if i was a
>air molecule what would i want to do?
>i need ducted tightly into the radiator. and then what...bounce around in
>turbulence forever?..no i need a way out..sorry...your gonna have to
>relieve something to let the air OUT effeciently..i put some neato vents
>in the front fender/bodywork to let air out...in a low pressure area of
>the body, heck you can warm your hands at the airflow out of those vents
>when the electric PULL (not push) fan kicks in...
>besides, that Judson takes up real estate that airflow wouldve used to
>escape..
>nothing is free...
>HP costs...in many ways..
>air in air out..
>
>R(WNIK)Kansa/RCCSA
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gerard Chateauvieux [mailto:pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com]
>Sent: Friday, September 28, 2001 1:19 PM
>To: Kansa, Robert; 'Geoff Branch'
>Cc: 'spridgets@autox.team.net'
>Subject: RE: "Oil Pressure" & "old" overheating problem
>
>
>Robert,
>
>I don't know if you've been following this thread, but Mike is running a
>Judson with 5 ring pistons and high ambient air temps, and his engine is
>generating lots of heat, especially at highway speed. Seems his situation
>may approach what would be happening on the race track.
>
>Gerard
>
>At 9:29 AM -0400 9/28/01, Kansa, Robert wrote:
>>theres a certian amount of time the water must remain in contact with the
>>metal to pull the heat from it, and the same goes for dissipating it
>>through the radiator. you want to have both, within certian limits,, the
>>big pully theory will only work for cars that are kept in high rev
>>situations for extended amounts of time..as in racing..and we are talking
>>6-8+k rpm...not 5-...if you suspect cavitation, a water wetter might help
>>a bit, but you may need a swirl tank, and are we talking a 130+bhp car?.
>>
>>R(wnik)Kansa/RCCSA
>>100+hp 1275 cool sprite
>>
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