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Re: getting the stereo to work

To: "Spridget List" <spridgets@autox.team.net>, "Steven Michelsen" <stevenm@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: getting the stereo to work
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 13:50:18 -0500
References: <20020914005413.71917.qmail@web21201.mail.yahoo.com> <001801c25b95$3c7cecf0$b291480c@ramsey> <002f01c25ba1$dc06f160$6401a8c0@600k7>
> Ok, can I ask you guys please consider the electrical issues at hand here?
> I have a "device" that is being fed 12 volts in the appropriate manner,
but
> will not work.  Is there some reason that the "device" is not receiving
> ENOUGH 12 volt juice to run?  Is that even possible?  What to do?   More
> specifically, can you suggest a point in the electrical system where one
can
> draw ignition-on-only power, that may work better than the point that is
> feeding the "device" currently?

Steve,
If it were me, I would hook it up the way you had originally intended, turn
on the ignition and then measure the voltages at both the red and the yellow
wires. Then turn on the CD player and measure those voltages again with the
load in place. Then turn on the headlights and see if that makes a
difference (for the worse of course).
I would presume from the previous evidence you have thrown at us that you
will find that the red switched 12vdc line drops significantly when
presented with a load, but that the headlights don't really affect it
significantly.
If that is indeed the case, run a new wire from the fuse block to the CD
player. The third fuse in the block should have a white wire on the unfused
side and a green wire on the fused side. This should be switched by the
ignition (easy enough to verify with that tester of yours) and there will
likely even be an open spade connector there. Should take care of load
issues. If not, it might be time to go over that fuse box and clean it up
and tighten the fuse connections i it.
David Lieb

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