Bill and Charlie,
Thanks for your suggestions. I had tested the stereo directly against the
battery - that's the only way I can get it to work. The "appropriate" hot
and ground wires ARE showing 12 volts between them, which is the odd thing,
seeing as the stereo won't light up at all attached to them. If the ground
wasn't good, how could it show 12 volts? There are no hot wires, no blowing
of fuses. I would wire the stereo directly to the battery right now and be
done with it if the stereo didn't also have a 2nd (+) line, for power that
is on only when the car is. I may call Jensen and ask why it is really
necessary to have this 2nd (+) lead set up in this way -- maybe I can just
bundle the two (+) lines together to the (+) battery terminal - it works
fine in the test.
The issue may partly be in that this stereo is the "digital" type, digital
display, etc., which is likely less forgiving than an analog radio when it
comes to power. You can just "click" it into the ON position, analog-style,
and see what comes out. It either is on or it's not.
In the meantime, I have to figure out how to make my car, with a hole where
the radio goes, look halfway presentable ("fallfest" show today at Moss). I
am thinking black gaffers tape...
Steve
78 Midget
----- Original Message -----
From "Bill L" <pythias at pacifier.com>
To: "Steven Michelsen" <stevenm@optonline.net>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 12:11 AM
Subject: Re[2]: getting the stereo to work
> Hello Steven,
>
> check to make SURE (with a meter) that there really IS 12 volts
> available. the only other limition would be enought CURRENT,
> which if the wires aren't getting HOT, (physically) or you're
> blowing fuses, there should be no problem. .. if you have 12
> volts, then check the device, with leads directly to the
> battery terminals.
>
>
>
>
> --
> Best regards,
> Bill mailto:pythias@pacifier.com
> "66 Sprite
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