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RE: one wire alternator

To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: one wire alternator
From: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 10:15:19 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@demo.fatchancegarage.com
In-reply-to: <1c9.26673527.2f8c0079@aol.com>
Reply-to: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Sender: owner-fot@autox.team.net
> Does anyone know where I
> can buy a long metric bolt (About 5 1/2 inches long)?

I did as Jack suggested, and drilled to 7/16" (or was it 3/8" ?).  However, one
source of long metric bolts is McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/

P/N 91280A666 looks pretty close.  It's a Grade 8.8 bolt, 10mm by 140mm (which
is 5.5 inches).

>  Right now, I have the
> alternator anchored to the front plate through one side of the original
> bracket.

I ran that setup for awhile, but found it was really shortening the life of my
fan belts, because the two-point mount was not holding the alternator square to
the rest of the engine.  Using a long bolt and a piece of pipe as a spacer to
the rear generator mount worked much better.

> I had to replace my old capacitive discharge positive ground ignition box
> with a MSD ignition.

Is the old +ground CDI for sale ?  I'd like to have it for my collection ...

> No instructions came with my alternator, and I assume that one wire
> alternators have built in voltage regulators, and that you do not use
> the old Lucas
> regulator.  You just hook the one wire some place to back feed into
> the battery.

Exactly right.

> Talking to
> the ex-US Air mechanic, he says to replace the alternator with a volt meter

That's another alternative that I failed to mention.  A standard 2" voltmeter
will fit the original hole in the dash.  You'll probably want to connect it into
the ignition circuit so it's not active all the time.  Personally, I prefer
ammeters as they tell me more about what's going on, but the wiring is more
complicated.

>  This simplifies the problem, but I am still would not out of the woods.  I
> will have to study the wiring schematic in the red shop manual to see
> what else
> runs through the regulator -- ignition switch, etc.?

If you're eliminating the ammeter, you can just extend the brown/blue wire that
was on terminal A1 of the control box over to your starter solenoid (or cutoff
switch) where the brown wire is already.  The brown/blue is the power to the
rest of the car (except for the horns & OD, which are powered by the brown
wire).

Randall

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