Rich,
I don't get that. The engine dyno readings on my "built" motor,
before installation, indicated far better volumetric efficiency than a
stock motor and significantly less fuel (in decimal lbs) per generated
horsepower. I.e. I burn less fuel and pump air more efficiently. At
the same output horsepower I burn less air and less gas for the same
horsepower; I am, therefore, more efficient. If I turn it up and burn
the same fuel and pump the same air as a stock engine I generate more
horsepower. I.e. the benefits of a "built engine".
Jim
---Rich Atherton <gumby@connectexpress.com> wrote:
>
> Simply because a built up engine is NOT as effecient at normal
RPM, and
> because of that, your engine actually requires more energy (gas+air)
to lope
> along at 2,200 RPM than does a block stock engine. That's one of
the reasons
> you get worse gas milage with built engines, even when just putting
along...It
> all turn to heat and polution.
> As you said, it may take a mere 30 HP to lope along at 45 mph or
so (this is
> for demonstration purposes only...No correction needed)...but you'll
burn twice
> the gas, and expend that much more heat. Granted, a lot of the
extra gas is
> wasted, but some isn't, and that ads heat !!!
>
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Parent <jparent@yahoo.com>
> To: tigers@autox.team.net <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, June 25, 1998 10:05 PM
> Subject: RE: carb
>
>
> > Dan,
> >
> >I've heard that before (Tigers become more of a problem when the
> >engine is
> >modified for performance.). What I don't understand is that when my
> >modified Tiger is cruising at 60 next to your stock Tiger, we are
both
> >generating the same horsepower (i.e. heat). It's only when I stand
on
> >it and motor away from you that I turn up the heat. Why then, should
> >I have cooling problems during normal (sane) crusing?
> >
> >I agree with your statement about small block fords running better at
> >the 200 degree level.( Keep in mind that according to Ford testing as
> >quoted by a number of people on this list, the Ford small block runs
> >more efficiently with less wear at a temperature range of 190-215
> >degrees
> >
> >I have a Raytek PM Plus non-contact IR temperature sensor. My
radiaotr
> >has a definite temperate drop across it and the input temp is
within 5
> >or 6 degrees of the gauge reading. But, depending where I point it I
> >can detect 300 plus degrees on the ouside of the block. Has anyone
> >used an oil temp gauge and determine the delta between water and oil
> >temps?
> >
> >( Best thing to do to check the "real" temp of your motor
> >is to
> >get it up to heat, then take it to one of your more hi-tech radiator
> >shops.
> >They have a "gun" they can point a various spots of the motor to
get and
> >extremely accurate reading on the temp of the mill and the radiator.)
> >
> >It also seems to me that even with a couple of psi from the
> >pump/radiator back pressure that the cap should let you get well
above
> >212 before it pukes. When that happens I suppose that there is more
> >steam in the "closed" system and therefore the cooling effect is
> >lessened and the beast overheats even more.
> >
> >How about sending my what you have Dan?
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >Jim Parent
> >B9470139
> >
> >
>
>
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