Theo, Tym,
If someone had an otherwise totally original car and was interested in
judging points in Stock Class and that sort of thing, then the original
engine, 260 or otherwise, would be important; although probably way down
the list in priority. Otherwise, I can't think offhand of any practical
reason why one would favor a 260 block over a 289/302 block. Pistons are
harder to find for the 260, the power potential is less, etc. In the early
days, SCCA rules required the Tiger to run a 260 with a two-barrel
carburetor. Nowadays I'm pretty sure they can run at least a 289 if not a
302. However, keeping the engine or getting rid of it is a up to Tym. But,
if you do decide to keep it Tym (and it's probably worth less than the
toploader), then perhaps storing it on an engine stand for long periods is
not a good idea, at least that's what I've been told. If you cantilever the
engine off the rear flange, so the story goes, then over time it can warp
the block. (Maybe you rotate it 90 degrees every week or so. ;-) Also,
after you clean it up good like Theo suggests, then dry it off real good,
and then spray it all over with WD-40 or something to protect it, and
finally put it in a plastic bag with some desiccant to discourage rust.
BTW, I have kicked myself for quite a few things I threw away much more
than ten years ago, but so far not the original engine.
Bob
At 12:09 PM 2/13/00 -0700, Theo Smit wrote:
>Tym,
>
>Take it to the car wash, blast the gunk off the outside of the engine, then
>buy yourself an engine stand, mount the engine on it, and bag the whole
>assembly. If you sell it, you'll kick yourself five or ten years down the
>line. The 'original parts' (even the parts that aren't original, but that
>came with your car) lose that distinction once you part with them. Even if
>you never re-use that engine and transmission, they're still part of the
>car.
>
>My $.02,
>
>Theo
Robert L. Palmer
UCSD, Dept. of AMES
619-822-1037 (o)
760-599-9927 (h)
rpalmer@ucsd.edu
rpalmer@cts.com
rlpalmer@lyonlyon.com
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