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Re: More brakes

To: Bob Palmer <rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu>
Subject: Re: More brakes
From: Larry Paulick <larry.p@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 20:13:03 -0400
Hi Bob.  I have been reading the brake bleeding sequence as posted.  The
books on brakes, the one I have im my library is an HP Book on Brakes by
Pogh, have always stated to bleed the farthest wheel and work toward the
closest to the MC.

Manuals from most US car manufacturers also state the same thing.  So
right or wrong, I have been going with the published works of the brake
experts and US manufacturers.  

I designed a new brake system for my MKI, and when sorting it out the
same advise was given by Wilwood, Baier (spelling), Coleman, Dave Bean
Engineering, and others.

Their comments were, "Like Of Course Duffus".  But, I just asked anyway,
to confirm what I though I had been reading was correct, according to
someone else.

I also did not understand why anyone would bleed all of the fluid out of
the system and start from a brake system with only air.  The old seals
can be severely damaged by having to pump them through the complete
travel,  where they will encounter corrosion, dried brake fluid, etc.,
that can damage the old seals, much less new ones.

Of course, if it works for you, keep at it.

The best system, that I have used, is a pressure bleed system, going by
several names, but EZ Bleed (spelling again) is what I use on my other
cars. It uses low pressure, 5-15 psi, and pressurizes the MC, then you
just open the bleeder screw.  After getting the car up in the air, and
wheels off, it takes less than 10 minutes to do the bleeding.  Pressure
bleeding is recommended by several car manufacturers who use ABS to get
the air and old fluid completely out of the system.  System is cheap,
and I think I paid around $35.

Now if I can just find extra MC caps for the Datsun 310 tandem master
cylinder, I will bleed the Tiger with this system.  

Of course there are the bleed screws that have a check valve, where you
step on the brake, and bleed with this valve open, as the check valve
stops air from coming into the system when you let off the pedal.  

Sounds great, does anyone have experience with this system.  Summit has
them at $10 a pair.  I would need 10 bleeder screws to do my brakes, and
one for the McCloud hydraulic throughout bearing, so I am waiting for
someone's experience before speeding $60 for bleeder screws.

Anyway, that's my thoughts, and experience. Regular brake bleeding by
any method is a really good idea that is over looked by many, and well
worth the discussion.

Larry

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