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Re: I give up

To: Theo Smit <tsmit@home.com>
Subject: Re: I give up
From: SJC Worldwide <ssage@socal.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 00:10:00 -0700
Theo Smit wrote:

> Jim,
> I found no good technical information on the Pertronix website except this:
>
> Quote:
> What will happen if I leave the ignition switch on when the engine is not 
>running?
>
> Leaving the ignition switch on when the engine is not running, can cause 
>permanent
> damage to the ignition system, and related components. This does not apply to 
>the
> accessory position of the ignition switch.
> End Quote.
>
> Thanks for coming out, guys. I'm amazed that they would market a system that 
>can
> potentially nuke itself, just because the ignition is left on.
> ...........................

>
> If you want to retain the stock look, then you shouldn't use one of the
> high-energy ignition systems, since they require the larger cap and rotor to
> prevent arcing.

Theo & Everyone:
I'm running the Pertronix Ignitor II and this unit, according to Pertronix, 
solves the
"key on" problem. It senses excess voltage and shuts itself down if the 
ignition is
left on, so it won't self destruct. Plus, it also controls dwell, which the 
Ignitor I
didn't.

As to the tach, mine is fine until about 18-1900 RPM, then starts jumping way 
up. It
doesn't go to zero as some listers have experienced. I run my Ignitor II and 
Flame
Thrower coil, as per their instructions, without the ballast resistor. There is 
no
specific ground wire on the Pertronix distributor plate. The plate screws down 
into
the distributor with the stock two screws (from the points plate) , and I 
imagine that
it gets grounded (or so the theory goes) through those screws into the dist. 
body and
then by the the dist. being clamped down to the engine.

As to the larger cap and rotor, you're right that it definitely needs these in 
my
case. As the list knows, I got repeated zaps with my hands anywhere near the
distributor cap with the Pertronix and my old stock Ford cap. With my new big 
MSD cap
and rotor, no more shocking revelations. I can touch the cap and wires with the 
car
running and live to tell about it. The big cap seems to be needed with the 
50,000
volts or so running around from the Flamethrower II coil.

Another suggestion, be sure to keep your old points setup (coil, points, ballast
resistor, stock dist. cap and rotor) in the trunk, just in case. I'm on my 
second
Ignitor as the first one failed (replaced at no charge by Pertronix....they 
tested it
and it had a failed solder inside), and keep an extra module, and the points 
setup,
handy.

Steve Sage
1967 MK1A

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