Guys, one tip I did learn for the pros, is to use a copper backup, if space
permits, to absorb heat on thin metal. Several places sell just a tool, but I
made one from an old piece of copper pipe, that I flattened, with one end acting
as a handle.
With the methods explained by Tim and Chris, this may not be necessary.
Larry
BlueGolfer@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 1/3/02 5:18:12 AM, Pirouette@uisreno.com writes:
>
> << This is functionally the same as Tim's method, heat is absorbed by the
> melting blobs, which then provide support on cooling as you move further, but
> it's very fast. I don't even bother putting the visor down for the blobs
> part, just look away each time since the gun is braced on the metal, and I
> usually stop briefly after completing the blob ring to let things cool, just
> to be antiwarp safe. But after a little practice (very little, this really is
> a fast learning curve), if you don't bother to wait, you can do a hole start
> to finish in 20-30 sec. !! And it will look good and be clean solid and
> almost flat metal. >>
>
> Wow, I really appreciate both Chris and Tim sharing their experience. In
> welding stuff on my Tiger and various ther projects, fixing holes was
> defintiely a needed skill. In addition I would add I sometimes cut little
> circular disks of scrap metal and welded them in to serve as backing for the
> holes. Chris' tip about not using the mask was interesting.
>
> Rob
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