Graham, soaking is the first step. Then with the rivet removed and the
door screws more accessible, take a screw driver of the right size, and
a hammer, and give the screwdriver a good whack several times. Soak
some more, and repeat with hammer.
The object is to break the rust holding the screws.
You can buy a impact screw driver, which has various bits, a recoil
mechanism, that when you hit with a hammer, gives a high torque impulse
that can also break the rusts hold.
Taking your time with just a hammer does the same thing. Take you time
and it will come loose.
One thing I have learned is if you want to take it off again, use anti
seize religiously.
Larry
gharlowe@comcast.net wrote:
> Thanks, Listers!
>
> You came through again. With some some determination, and a tiny hacksaw, I
> removed the bottom head of the pivot rivets.
>
> Now about those big door screws. Other than soaking them in WD40, which I'm
> doing, any tricks on how to break them loose without stripping the screw
> head? They are on TIGHT!
>
> The car is almost totally disassembled and this is my first real roadblock.
>
> Thanks,
> GH
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <gharlowe@comcast.net>
> To: "Tiger List" <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 3:02 PM
> Subject: Door removal (second effort)
>
>
>
>>Listers -
>>
>>Sorry to bug you...
>>
>>I didn't get any replies on or off line to my earlier question about how
>
> to remove the metal door strap.
>
>>I don't see any fasteners inside the kick panels. The pin in the middle
>
> (between the door and the body) seems unmovable, and I don't see anything
> obvious to do with the washer-looking keeper inside the door. I know
> someone out there has taken their doors off.
>
>>I do have some spare doors with the strap sawed through. I hope that's
>
> not the preferred approach...
>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>GH
>
>
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