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Re: Negative camber.

To: hill@mninter.net (hill)
Subject: Re: Negative camber.
From: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 23:10:33 -0800 (PST)
Bob---The rear springs tend to sag over time and usage. When that
happens, the camber goes negative. (tire leans in at the top) There are
many ways to bring the camber back 'into spec' and the choice is yours.
Depending how much 'negative' you have will determine what you should
do, if anything. Here are a few:    

1) replace both rear springs with either the original style, which will
eventually sag again in a year or three.  Alternate, heavier springs are
available.

2) add a 'packing piece' between the spring and the spring perch at the
bottom of each trailing arm. The thickness needed is determined on how
much negative camber you want to dial out.

3) if you like the ride height of your car but just want to 'straighten
out' the wheel/s, you can use the (Brian's) chart as listed in MOSS, as
others mentioned. While changing a bracket or two to the one/s that give
the desired effect can be accomplished this way, it can be a little
intimidating until you actually do it. If your comfortable in working on
suspension parts, this is a good way to get both the ride ht. and the
camber you want.

All of the above parts are sold by the Big Three.

A little negative camber is not a bad thing. (1/4" off vertical or about
3/4 deg.) If the ride got too soft for you along with the change in
camber, you may want to just change the springs, which is easy.  You
could still end up with a camber you don't like even after doing this,
although the usual result of a spring change is more towards a positive
camber. (Wheel leans out at the top.)   I always thought this to be one
of the more-fun jobs that the enthusiast can do to his or her TR.

Dick T.
CF11143

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