Glenn---There could have been many reasons for your stripping the
manifold stud. When a specified torque is down around 20-25 lb. a wrench
with lower torque figures, like 5 to 50 is the better choice. The
wrenches that can be used to secure a cylinder head or flywheel may not
be sensitive enough for the lower figures, even tho such numbers are 'on
the handle.' As you may know, where you grip such a handle influences
when they 'let go.'
I personally don't use a torque wrench when I feel that the spec called
for is just a generic number. Using a standard 3/8" drive ratchet has a
short enough handle to keep the average person out of over-torquing
trouble, yet will keep things from falling off. Such should be the case
around the manifold studs.
Lubrication on threads can lead to over-tightening, and most T wrench
instructions will warn you to allow for this.
If you want to practice, torque up a few nuts with a 1/4" or 3/8" drive
handles, to what you think is 'tight enough'. Then go back in with a
torque wrench and see how close you came.
There are those who use torque wrenches on everything. That's fine.
Personally I only use one on parts such as rod and main bolts, head
'bolts', and flywheels. If the spec calls for over 100 lb. I lean on it.
Read the torque spec data sheets for the TR6. (They're usually in the
front of the manuals.) Note which ones look critical, and make a mental
or written note of them. Small diam. nuts & bolts can't be fastened as
tight as the big ones...
Dick T.
'73
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