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Re: Locking Brakes

To: TRDOCTOR@aol.com, 6pack-digest@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Locking Brakes
From: Trsx69@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2001 23:35:32 EST
Sam,
I still believe the problems is in the PDWA vavle, I had the problem once and 
then again several years later on my 72, I rebuilt it the second time and 
switched back to dot 4 and haven't had the problem, knock on wood for over 8 
years.  I think my problem originated because I had dot 4 then switched to 
silicone, with a very good alchol flush and then trouble started about two 
years later.  On my 69 every piece of the brake system way new and I run the 
silicone and never had a problem for 6 years and 30,000 miles.  I knoe the 
dot 4 is bad stuff for the paint but not wanting to replace every piece, just 
yet anyway that's the way I went.

Best regards
Jim Holewka
69 TR6
72 TR6
80 TR7
80 TR7-V8
New Jersey


In a message dated 3/27/01 10:43:48 PM, TRDOCTOR@aol.com writes:

<< Fellow listers;
Last summer, as some of you may remember, I posted a plea for help for the 
locking of my front brakes on my '72 TR6.  The common thought pointed to the 
PDWA.  I rebuilt it and everything seemed ok for awhile.  Well, the problem 
has re-manifested itself.  I can feel the brake pedal "pump up" and the 
brakes start dragging.  It gets so bad that the brakes litteraly stop the 
car.  I have succeded in warping the rotors so I want to make sure I have the 
problem solved before I change them out.  Today, on the way to work, it 
happened again.  This time instead of cracking a bleeder, I cracked the brake 
line at the master cylinder and the brakes released leading me to believe 
that the problem is with the "tipping valve".  
What I was wondering is:  Is the rod that goes from the servo to the master 
cylinder adjustable?  I am wondering if the rod may be applying some pressure 
to the master not letting the piston come all the way back and letting the 
tipping valve open.
The other question would be:  Is there something else I am missing?  There is 
nothing in the Bentley's that I can see that I am missing.
What I intend on doing, pending on the "list" response, is to disassemble the 
master cylinder and see if the tipping valve is gummed up, or something 
obvious is wrong.
A little background:  The master cylinder is less than 10k old and the whole 
system was rebuilt at the same time.  I am also using silicone fluid.
TIA

Samuel R. Clark 
Green Country Triumphs/Jaguar Enthusiast's Club of Oklahoma
VTR South Central Regional Coordinator
TS45355L O
CC82030U O

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