Hi Dick,
Nothing like good TR6 clutch talk is there? Thanks for the ideas. I'll
save the dimensions you've offered in my reference document and compare
the next time the transmission is removed.
My question was... assuming all of the components were functioning
properly, BUT PERHAPS I was one of the lucky ones who bought and
installed one of the mis-drilled cross shafts from TRF, could I make up
for the small inaccuracy in the mis-drilling by using an adjustable push
rod? When I installed my new cross shaft, I installed the taper pin (for
correct alignment of the fork on the shaft) tight enough that there was
no movement and then cross drilled and bolted the shaft and fork to
assure that the pin didn't break again.
I edited your response to answer the questions you brought up.
On Thu, 11 Apr 2002 20:21:34 -0700 (PDT) tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or
Dick Taylor) writes:
> Jay---When you wrote that the fork pin hole is "mis-drilled" I wasn't
sure if it was simply not drilled deep enough to allow the tapered
> bolt to go thru the shaft (to pick up the continued bore in the fork)
or?
**No, this is all fine. The idea that I might have a mis-drilled cross
shaft comes from a thread on the list a few days ago regarding bad shafts
from Moss and TRF. Does anyone know what TRF's response to this possible
problem was??
> It seemed that there were two different responses.
>
> If the (tapered) bore for the tapered pin was not drilled parallel to
the clutch shaft arm, I can see where, if off enough in one
> direction, the SC piston could 'fall out' of its bore while trying to
disengage the clutch. IF this is the case, I will say that you could do >
> one of two things to make it right, altho it is against my personal
policy to 'adjust' for the mistakes of our vendors. Making an adjustable
> pushrod is the long way around this. Spacing the SC towards the rear of
the car is much simpler, and can be done with nothing more than a > >
few washers to make up the shortfall of the mis-drilled shaft. Changing
the location of the SC in this manner IS NOT the answer if
> the clutch won't disengage because of other problems, such as pedal box
play, or a bent or broken fork pin. These have all been listed in
> several good tech bulletins. (I know that you already know all or most
of this.)
**I've already spaced the slave about 3/16". This in itself probably
answers my question. I'm guessing that doing this has compensated for
any movement I might have lost with a misdrilled shaft. My next "lazy"
retrofit will be a .75" slave. I've read that it does help a bit.
>
> You will still get only a fixed amount of pushrod movement when either
making this rod longer, or moving the SC. I am presuming that the
> mis-drilled shaft has left the clutch cross shaft arm in a clock
position of something like 11:25. If it is off much more than that
> there's little that can be done, short of replacing the shaft with one
that looks like this:
>
> Open end of clutch shaft to CL of taper pin bore--- 5.500"
> Arm end to CL of pin bore--- 7.375"
>
> Pin bore in the shaft must be on the same vertical as the clutch arm.
>
> As an aside, the bore thru the fork that contains the fork pin is
drilled at a 7 degree angle. The fork pin should be screwed far enough
into > the fork so that the 'small' end picks up the bore on the other
side, after going thru the shaft. This will add pin strength. Failure of
the >pin not going deep enough will add stress to this already marginal
part. Tick Tock?
>
> Dick T.
Thanks again to all for their input,
Jay Welch, Abington MA
1971 TR6 project, 1973 TR6 driver, and a 1989 Mustang GT to Cobra Kit Car
looking better all the time :-)
Member "Cape Cod British Car Club" @
http://clubs.hemmings.com/capecodbritish/
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