My Dad had told me about doing the hose clamp trick, he apparently had
done this on his various Triumphs back in his younger days. I always
thought it sounded a little crazy! But I am starting to think I may
have reassembled the prop shaft wrong. I thought it only went back
together one way, due to a keyed spline like the ones on the half
shafts. But it sounds like I was wrong here, therefore I may have just
put the prop shaft back together without regards to the phasing of the
UJs. Guess I need to climb underneath...
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu> wrote:
> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 12:00:27 -0500 (EST)
> From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
> To: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
> CC: 6pack@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: Drive Shaft
>
> On Sun, 1 Dec 2002, Timothy Holbrook wrote:
>
> > I still don't understand this. I realize that the factory would
> have
> > dynamically balanced the prop shaft and axle shafts, but they
> wouldn't
> > have done this while the shafts were connected to the diff and
> tranny.
> > Therefore, why does it make a difference how you bolt the shafts to
> the
> > flanges? And if indeed it does make a difference, what is the
> right
> > orientation of the shaft flanges to the diff/tranny flanges? The
> > factory would have had to direct the assembly line workers on the
> > correct assembly orientation, right? This would be pretty useful
> > information to document on the 6pack list, considering the fact
> that
> > many of us have had these shafts out once or twice, and may have
> > replaced tranny's and/or diffs at some point (in my case, both).
> More
> > info please!
>
> I hope one of the UK list members picks up on this discussion.
>
> I don't actually know that big TRs dynamically balanced the shafts
> once
> installed.
>
> However, I do know anecdotally via conversations with Paul Richardson
> that
> Heralds were notorious for driveline vibrations after assembly, and
> it was
> common in the early days to support the cars on jacks with one person
> under the car and another running the car up though the gears and
> adding
> universal hose clamps to the shafts to get them to balance out... in
> other
> words, the vibration would be confirmed and a clamp would be added
> and the
> car the "run up" to motorway speeds. If the vibration was still
> noted, the
> clamp would be rotated about the shaft 'till the vibration was gone.
>
> Bottom line - get your shaft blanced after you switch u-joints. Try
> to
> mark the shaft orientation when you take it out. THis should save you
> from
> any dynamic shaft balance problems.
>
> > Tim Holbrook
> > 1971 TR6 (with a wicked vibration over 75ish)
>
> But where's the vibration? In the seat or in the steering wheel?
>
> I've had vibrations from out of round tires, poorly balanced tires,
> um
> loose lug nuts!, bad u-joints and other maladies.
>
> FWIW, my street car has a minor vibration at 80+. I have to look into
> that
> over the winter.
>
> regards,
> rml
>
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