Hi Ken (and the group),
I hope this doesn't bode poorly for your group impression of me:
To get you car to get better numbers for emissions tests-
First, raise the idle to just under the state's maximum. A car's emissions
is poor at idle. Many states have a 1500 RPM idle maximum limit. At 1400
RPM your car will have far fewer unburnt hydrocarbons (HC).
Second, lean out the carbs slightly. You want the car to still run well,
but it is OK if it runs a little "less well" than you are accustomed to.
Third, if your car has a lot of blow-by (either from valve guides or, most
likely, the rings), plug up the breather system that leads to the intake
manifold and try to vent it in a way that won't be noticable to the
inspector. This can be tricky, but it is definitely possible.
Fourth, have relatively clean air-filters on the car or remove them.
Fifth, have the engine thoroughly warm. Drive it around for at least 15
minutes after you get to full temperature in order to heat up not only the
engine but also the exhaust system thoroughly.
Sixth, immediately before the test, spray at least a half can of carb
cleaner through the carbs. You can have someone work the throttle for you
or you cando it easily on a TR6 youself with the linkage. You want to do
this as soon before the test as possible. This will a surprising jb of
cleaning out the engine and improving you "numbers". Try to find an
emission tester that is friendly, id est- one that will allow you to do this
in their shop immediately before the test.
And for you Ken, about your air pump. It is a simple device. You will be
able to remove it and maybe either repair it or at least remove enough of
its internals (specifically the plates) so that it will "spin". This is not
to say that it will be pumping any air or anything else, but it might make
your emission inspector happy. Then after the test you could remove the
belt that drives the air pump once again. Of course having the air pump
functioning is awesome for emission because it effectively bombards the hot
hydrocarbons with fresh oxygen-rich air which enables then to continue to
burn in the exhaust system before reaching the tail-pipe. A funcioning air
pumps can actually mask engines improperly adjusted because the exhaust
readings from a machine are taken after the air is injected. If you are
tuning an engine using the exhaust as an indicator for unburnt hydrocarbons,
you must disconnect the air pump to do so.
OK, I don't want to babble too much. I've already been "advised" that I am
proliferous in this aspect.
Best of luck,
Dave Herbert
1969 TR6
>From: Trumpet76TR6@cs.com
>Reply-To: Trumpet76TR6@cs.com
>To: 6pack@autox.team.net
>Subject: AIR Pump Needed
>Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 00:55:35 EDT
>
> I took my 76 TR6 down for the emission test this afternoon. I found out
>that a 76 has to undergo an under hood inspection. My AIR pump is
>disconnected and frozen up. So it failed. It also was a little high on HC
>at idle. But it easily passed at cruise speed. I plan on putting in a
>Pertronix electronic ignition to help the HC at idle. For the AIR pump,
>rather than spend $175 for a new one, I would be interested in buying a
>working used one. Does anyone have one they want to part with?
> Thanks.
> Ken, AZ, 76 TR6
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