Dave, desperate times call for desperate actions . All's fair in love, war,
and passing emissions tests.
>From: "TR6 Triumph" <tr6_1969@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: "TR6 Triumph" <tr6_1969@hotmail.com>
>To: Trumpet76TR6@cs.com, 6pack@autox.team.net
>Subject: Emissions test prep list
>Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 15:12:39 +0000
>
>Hi Ken (and the group),
>
>I hope this doesn't bode poorly for your group impression of me:
>
>To get you car to get better numbers for emissions tests-
>
>First, raise the idle to just under the state's maximum. A car's emissions
>is poor at idle. Many states have a 1500 RPM idle maximum limit. At 1400
>RPM your car will have far fewer unburnt hydrocarbons (HC).
>
>Second, lean out the carbs slightly. You want the car to still run well,
>but it is OK if it runs a little "less well" than you are accustomed to.
>
>Third, if your car has a lot of blow-by (either from valve guides or, most
>likely, the rings), plug up the breather system that leads to the intake
>manifold and try to vent it in a way that won't be noticable to the
>inspector. This can be tricky, but it is definitely possible.
>
>Fourth, have relatively clean air-filters on the car or remove them.
>
>Fifth, have the engine thoroughly warm. Drive it around for at least 15
>minutes after you get to full temperature in order to heat up not only the
>engine but also the exhaust system thoroughly.
>
>Sixth, immediately before the test, spray at least a half can of carb
>cleaner through the carbs. You can have someone work the throttle for you
>or you cando it easily on a TR6 youself with the linkage. You want to do
>this as soon before the test as possible. This will a surprising jb of
>cleaning out the engine and improving you "numbers". Try to find an
>emission tester that is friendly, id est- one that will allow you to do
>this
>in their shop immediately before the test.
>
>And for you Ken, about your air pump. It is a simple device. You will be
>able to remove it and maybe either repair it or at least remove enough of
>its internals (specifically the plates) so that it will "spin". This is
>not
>to say that it will be pumping any air or anything else, but it might make
>your emission inspector happy. Then after the test you could remove the
>belt that drives the air pump once again. Of course having the air pump
>functioning is awesome for emission because it effectively bombards the hot
>hydrocarbons with fresh oxygen-rich air which enables then to continue to
>burn in the exhaust system before reaching the tail-pipe. A funcioning air
>pumps can actually mask engines improperly adjusted because the exhaust
>readings from a machine are taken after the air is injected. If you are
>tuning an engine using the exhaust as an indicator for unburnt
>hydrocarbons,
>you must disconnect the air pump to do so.
>
>OK, I don't want to babble too much. I've already been "advised" that I am
>proliferous in this aspect.
>
>Best of luck,
>Dave Herbert
>1969 TR6
>
>
> >From: Trumpet76TR6@cs.com
> >Reply-To: Trumpet76TR6@cs.com
> >To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> >Subject: AIR Pump Needed
> >Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 00:55:35 EDT
> >
> > I took my 76 TR6 down for the emission test this afternoon. I found
>out
> >that a 76 has to undergo an under hood inspection. My AIR pump is
> >disconnected and frozen up. So it failed. It also was a little high on
>HC
> >at idle. But it easily passed at cruise speed. I plan on putting in a
> >Pertronix electronic ignition to help the HC at idle. For the AIR pump,
> >rather than spend $175 for a new one, I would be interested in buying a
> >working used one. Does anyone have one they want to part with?
> > Thanks.
> > Ken, AZ, 76 TR6
>
>
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