Brian,
I just had diff mount reinforcements welded in to fix a broken RF mount.
The "U" bracket was cracked completely across with the pin was loose at the
top as well. The TRF kit (and the others I imagine) had 3-pieces per mount,
including a large steel washer to reinforce the top of the pin. I was not
in a position (timewise and space-wise!) to take the body off. The round
washer is probably supposed to go on top of the frame, but I hacksawed it in
half (leaving a 1/4'' strip out to allow for the weld bead) and located it
around the top of the pin against the bottom of the crossmember. The pin
was re-welded to the bottom of crossmember, then the beef-up washer halves
to the crossmember, then the washer halves to the pin.
It was effective, although not a pretty job, as the welding had to be done
overhead with the car on jackstands. Just drove it yesterday and the mounts
were rock solid. The other pieces of the kit boxed in the "U" bracket and
together it should hold until I get the body off sometime in the future.
But now I can accelerate with confidence (and in a straight line). The
Williams "How to Restore Triumph TR250 & TR6" book describes this on page
59. I think it will be OK - the rest of the frame was amazingly solid.
I didn't want to cut a hole in the body above the pin, but it can be
repaired that way to I guess. The pinion leaks a little, but I left it
alone. I replaced a diff pinion oil seal once (wasn't hard), but after it
was back up in the car it leaked twice as bad as the old one. I've since
been told that you should use a speedy sleeve to get a really good seal.
Happy Easter and good luck!
Jeff Fetner
74 CF13816U
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Yarborough" <bytr6@frontiernet.net>
To: "6-pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2004 5:41 AM
Subject: Diff. bracket cracks
> Happy Easter and Passover to all;
> I finally got the diff. removed. I had to remove one of the two ANSA
exhaust
> pipes, etc. Once the diff. was off, I could see that the crack had been
> welded, albeit a kludge job; it looks like a big steel washer was welded
to
> the bottom of the bracket. It is solid, if ugly. However, the stud (this
is
> the infamous right front mount, remember) was loose. I realize that the
> proper solution is to remove the bracket and redo the whole thing. Since
I'm
> going to start a complete body-off next fall and I want to drive it all
> summer, I'm just looking to get it through until next fall.
> The question is: 1. can I tack weld the stud (I can't get to the top of
the
> stud, the body is in the way) from the bottom to the bracket, 2. Do you
> think there'd be any danger in waiting until the body is off and I can do
a
> proper job, removing the bracket, reinforcing it, etc.?
> Also, how hard is it to remove the rear diff. cover and replace the
gasket?
> The diff. leaks from both the front and rear. I bought a new front pinion
> seal and new rear gasket. How hard is it to replace the pinion seal?
> What color is the rear cover? It looks to be plain aluminum. Was the front
> part of the diff. painted black? (Might as well make it look as good as
> possible, and it is already cleaned up.)
> Is there anything else I should do to the diff. as long as it's out?
> Thanks;
> Brian Yarborough
> 1976 TR-6
> CF55886UO
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