Bob----I thought for sure that Vance had uncovered the reasons for your
post in his reply. Since it could be carburetion OR ignion system that
causes this unwillingness to run well under load, I will submit some
less likely but possible reasons for this.
A) Connect a timing light to #1 or #6 sparkplug wire and watch the
timing as the engine is revved quickly from idle to approx. 3,000 rpm
and back. The marks should "move" instantly. If not, the reason/s need
to be found.
B) Use points. At least long enough to get this issue sorted out. Go to
Pertronics later, if desired.
C) Look into the carb airstream as the engine is revved up from idle.
Both air valves should rise equally with the throttle movement. If one
lags, check the diaphragm and throttle linkage again.
D) Turn the engine to where the timing is at 10 deg. TDC #1 firing. Take
off the distributor cap and note the position of the cam. The points
should be just ready to open, and the rotor should be close to the
center of #1 sparkplug cap terminal.
I don't have the Haynes Manual but it could be they were referring to
the condenser absorbing spark during normal operation, rather than
allowing the points to arc when opened. (You should see a tiny spark
when opened by hand, as Vance reported)
Let us all know what you find!
Dick
'73
Bob Greene wrote:
Hi All:
I'm trying to help a fellow TR6 owner. He has a
74 TR6, we have been chasing a rough running condition with no
success.(He is getting very discouraged)
The car runs rough under load (idles nice), but gets smoother once past
the initial acceleration. We have done the following... Carbs are
adjusted well
New fuel filters
Valve lashe adjusted
New Coil (12V instead of the 6V with Ballast removed & 12v feed from key
switch)
New spark plugs
New wires (Old ones tested fine)
New points, condensor, cap & rotor
We even tried another used Dist (seemed to make it better, but the rough
running came back the next day.
We think the condensors are failing. Tried the test in nthe Haynes
manual (with "key on open the points if a spark results = bad
condensor"). All the condensors we tried failed the test, so we are
wondering A: Is the car ruining the condensors? B: If so, what would
cause this? Food for thought, we purchased a Pertronix ign. As soon as
we tried to start the car the Pertronix smoked. (We did NOT have the
unit wired wrong = red to pos side of the coil, black to Neg side of the
coil. Pertronix is sending a replacement, hoping we just got a bad
unit????
Any advise???
Bob Greene
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