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Re: [6pack] U-joint removal, last trick in my book

To: johncnorth@gmail.com (John North)
Subject: Re: [6pack] U-joint removal, last trick in my book
From: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 23:04:26 -0800
John N.---If you are still fighting with the stubborn U-joint bearings,
I'd suggest you use a shock treatment, rather than a press-out with
sockets. Almost the same, but use a socket slightly smaller than the
diam. of the bearing. Set the whole unit on the anvil of your vise, and
whack the socket with a big hammer. Drive it far enough out to move the
opposite bearing out of the yoke. If you can't grip the exposed bearing,
try grinding two grooves on opposite sides of the bearing shell. Then
alternately tap it out with a chisel. I find this method to work well
when the fit is tight.

A propane torch may not provide enough heat. If necessary, and If you
have a kit that includes Oxy/Acetylene, try that on the yoke, right at
the bearing.. I doubt if freezing would do much.

Measure the distance (vernier calipers) of the yoke between the
bearings. It's not likely that you'll collapse it by trying to remove
the old bearings, but you'll want to know if you did. You won't be able
to get the circlips deep enough into their respective grooves if this
distance decreases. (Unless you make them thinner)

Dick

From: johncnorth@gmail.com(John North)

Gone through all my tricks, "tapping", beating, two sockets in a vise
etc trying to get the last prop shaft u-joint out of the flange. Last
night I heated it up with a propane torch, still won't move with the
two-sockets-in-a-vise method.   One last shot is to put it in the
freezer for a couple hours and then try the propane torch again.   It
strikes me that this is serious torture and maybe the metal can't handle
that without cracking.   What do you think?   Will that damage the
flange?
John North
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