-----Original Message-----
I'd like to have a setup at home for changing out shocks/etc.
I'm looking for an inexpensive solution for a Strut Vise.
I've done an McPherson strut change in the past without a vise and
hurt myself, so I'm trying to do it right this time (within reason).
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What exactly are you trying to do? Install your old springs onto new
shocks/struts?
Here's the tools I use when I did this twice each year with my OE shocks.
Less than $100 total cash layout for tools assuming you already have basic
hand tools.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43753
(which beats the proverbial pants off of these
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=3980)
and http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45252
to loosen/tighten the top nuts.
My procedure went as follows.
Loosen sway bar frame brackets to reduce the tension.
Remove strut (with spring) from car. This normally takes at least one beer
per strut. I can have one out of my car in under 20 minutes.
To disassemble the strut do the following:
Lay strut on garage floor.
Step foot onto the side of the coil spring, holding it in place.
Drink a little more beer, 'cuz it's about to get entertaining.
Put impact gun onto top nut.
Burp gun one good time, in reverse obviously.
The top nut stays in the impact socket and the rest of the strut shoots a
few feet across the floor the other way (old grocery sacks filled with old
newspapers make good wall cushions) while the spring stays under your foot.
(And please don't tell me you're worried about scratching your old struts as
they slide across the floor. They're freaking suspension parts and as such
get pelted with rocks, sand, salt and water every day of their life.)
Wash spring in kitchen sink with dish soap to remove crud. (This is an
optional step.)
Then use the spring compressor listed above to compress the spring using
hand tools only.
Install spring onto new strut on living room table while watching any show
that is car related.
Here you have some options. On adjustable struts the cardinal sin is to use
an impact gun to install the top nut. "Spinning the guts" is not good for
adjustable shocks and foot valves can and do come unscrewed, and loose parts
inside the shock are not a good thing. What I prefer to do is the 2nd most
cardinal sin of shocks. I put a couple pair of Vise-grips ('cuz one pair
just ain't enough) onto the very top of the shaft to hold it still while I
use more hand tools to tighten the top nut down. (Don't worry. Any damage
to the shaft should be cosmetic only as they are usually very hard chromed
metal and the very top 1" or so of the shaft should never enter the top seal
of the shock, which could cause a leak.)
If however you're installing run-of-the-mill OE style non-adjustable shocks,
then just burp the impact gun once to tighten the top nut down. Don't spin
the snot out of the shaft or even generic shocks can protest by acting
weird.
You did remember to reinstall the shaft boot and or bump rubbers didn't you?
Loosen the spring compressor slowly making sure the spring is aligned
properly.
Drink beer while reinstalling that shock onto the car.
Repeat 3 more times. Don't forget to tighten the sway bar frame brackets.
When you sober up the next day, recheck to make sure you properly tightened
everything. And yes, I am serious.
Eric Linnhoff in KC
'98 Mini-Viper #69 STS
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