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Re: re-torque of head bolts

To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net, raycole@mindspring.com,
Subject: Re: re-torque of head bolts
From: walter@omni.sps.mot.com (Thomas Walter)
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 99 07:57:32 CDT
Ray,

Retorqing the head may help. I would REMOVE one headbolt
at a time, and check the threads for any signs of rust.
Is water has seeped into the head bolts, and there is rust
present; most likely you'll need to replace the head
gasket.  Remember loosen only one bolt at a time, and
let the engine sit over night (cold engine) before 
starting a retorque of the head.


If the coolant is leaking on the MANIFOLD side of the block,
a very common problem is the sealing of the intake manifold
to cylinder head.

There are two little water passages at the bottom of the
intake manifold that pass into the cylinder head. If the
manifolds are not fully clamped down, you can get some
water seepage from those passages.

On my '68 2000, the intake manifold flange is thicker
than the aftermarket exhaust manifold flange. I bought
some manifold washers (240Z items, work fine as the roadster
one was NLA), and then found some thin washers that matched
the thickness difference of the two manifolds.

Using my trusty dremel tool, and cut off wheel I cut
the thin washers into two parts. I used some high temp
epoxy to glue the half moon piece onto the thick manifold
washer.

Viola, A 'stepped' washer that nicely clamped both intake
and exhaust flange with the proper clamping pressure. Took
care of the water leak.

Cheers,

Tom Walter  '67 2000
Austin, TX  '68 2000

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