Rust-X is only one of many brands of what is called a rust converter. Rust
converters are usually based on tannins--which are plant derived. When
fall leaves turn water black and brown in streams and swamps, it is from
the tannins leached out of the leaves. Tannins are also used to "tan"
leather hides. The tannins react with iron oxide (rust) and form a hard,
non-porous, black compound. This seals off the rust to further oxidation.
There needs to be some rust for the really hard surface to form--if you
brush it onto bare metal, it just dries very slowly to a mild hardness and
doesn't turn black.
The most important thing to know is that rust converters have a limited
shelf life--this is because tannins will react with air and contaminants in
the converter mixture (and even other tannins). Never put used rust
converter back in the bottle along with unused converter because the
contaminants will eventually react with the whole bottle--causing all of it
to harden. If the rust converter has been sitting around in a warehouse or
on your garage shelf for a year, it won't be nearly as effective as a fresh
batch--so try to buy it from a place that has good shelf turnover, or maybe
even factory direct mail order and don't let it hang around your garage for
too long.
I think they work pretty good, especially on unseen areas. The surface
finish can be a bit lumpy, but its sandable and all. I've put some on some
rusty spots on my fathers Kubota farm tractor (top of the fenders, etc.),
and even without a top coat of paint, the rust hasn't come back in 3 years.
At 08:17 AM 9/15/00 -0700, Brian St. Jacques wrote:
>I was researching some de-rusting options and found a product called
>Rust-X. Their claim is that it chemically reacts with the rust in several
>different ways and the end result turns the rust into a protective coating
>that is supposed to seal the metal from any further moisture contact.
>
>I got one bottle of the stuff and sprayed it on a few things. After about
>20 minutes the rust turns into a semi glossy black finish. Supposedly this
>can be painted over or simply left alone. So far it seems to do what it
>says it will, but the proof will come in time.
>
>
>At 07:37 AM 9/15/2000, Marc Tyler wrote:
>>ken ogi wrote
>>
>> >hello list
>> >i took my roadster apart and found more than my share of rust and some
>> >rots.
>> >i used rust mort and then coated it with epoxy primer + sealer... i
>> >thought this will virtually stop the rust from spreading. well
>> >"virtually" is the right word because i still have areas where the rust
>> >has bled through. now i'm looking at a paint called POR-15.
>> >has anyone ever used this stuff? does it work?
>> >any input would be grateful :)
>> >
>> >thanks
>> >ken 67.5 1600 rust-bucket
>> >
>>
>>
>>I'm looking ito these products too. An alternative to POR-15 is
>>Eastwood's Corolless. I haven't used either, the main difference seems
>>to be that Coroless is more UV stable. It's a red pimer color, so you'd
>>be topcoating either one probably. There's info on Corroless on the
>>Eastwood website:
>>
>>www.eastwoodco.com
>
>
>Brian '68 1600
>
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