Got one of those short gear reduction starters for about $75 and it had a bad
selonoid, put back my original snout.
Roy
________________________________
From: Chito Santa Ana <chito.santaana@gmail.com>
To: Gordon Maness
<gordon.e.maness@hotmail.com>
Cc: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Sent:
Monday, February 20, 2012 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Header/starter fit
issue
My first Datsun, I was really looking for a 510 stumbled on this at
craigslist for $1100. I added the wheels and tires.
On Mon, Feb 20, 2012 at
1:50 PM, Gordon Maness
<gordon.e.maness@hotmail.com>wrote:
> It's prettier! g
> > Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Header/starter fit issue
> >
> > > My '68
Roadster project continues to crawl...
> > > It came with a stock exhaust
manifold and a nice looking header,
> > > so I went the route of the header,
or course.
> >
> > I've got to ask, why "of course"? Past posts have discussed
factory
> > manifold vs aftermarket headers, and my recollection is that if
you
> > have the correct factory manifold, in good shape without any cracks,
>
> you're usually better off using it rather than an aftermarket header.
> >
Nissan actually did a splendid design job on most of the bits on these
> >
cars, and reportedly their manifold is a better match than aftermarket
> >
attempts.
> >
> > Good manifolds are also rare and expensive, so a good header
is
> > a good substitute if you don't have a manifold available. (key word
> >
being good, there's also lots of past discussion on flange width,
> > proper
washer spacing, etc etc). But it's still a substitute.
> >
> > As far as heat
and the starter, yes that's a concern. And wrapping
> > the header can lead to
early header failure (traps too much heat).
> > Jet-Hot ceramic coatings help
a lot, I understand, but I have no
> > personal experience. A gear reduction
shorty H20 starter is a great
> > choice.
> >
> > My opinions, of course...
>
>
> > -- John
> > John F Sandhoff sandhoff@csus.edu Sacramento, CA
> >
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> >
> >
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> >
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