Hi
Re the material for the master cylinders, original ones that I have seen
over the years since the late 70s have been aluminium except for the 7/8
inch bore Brake Masters used on servo assisted cars, which have been
cast iron.
I suspect that the "625" cylinder received by Alex is 5/8 inch bore (=
0.625 inch).
One other point to consider Ron - you need to replace all of your seals
at least if going to silicone brake fluid. Even if not, I would suggest
that all new brake parts would be a good way to spend those restoration
bucks!
Regards
Paul
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2004 10:35:35 -0400
From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
Subject: Master brake & clutch cylinders
The replacement master cylinder that Michael at British Car Specialists
(Norman's shop) sent to me was marked "625 Girling," and looked
identical to
the one I replaced, which was also marked Girling. The new one came in a
green
carton marked "Lucas." Both are aluminum castings.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 3000 Mark 1 - "The Blue Mainie"
Former owner of 1957 100-6, and 1967 3000 Mark III BJ8
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 21:50:03 -0700
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Master brake & clutch cylinders
Ron,
I recently bought a new MC from Vic. Brit. To my surprise, the new MC
body is cast iron, whereas the one in the car--I presume it's
original--has an aluminum body. Dave Nock told me that the original
part was cast iron, but both my brake and clutch MC are Al. I'm
confused, but I kept the new MC--it's Lucas brand, BTW-- because I
figure I'll need it sooner or later and I'm not a stickler on
originality.
Re-sleeving runs about $50-60/bore, depending on who does it (White Post
is
outrageous!), plus a rebuild kit will run about $15-20. I think I got
the new Lucas for
around $90 on sale.
To possibly save yourself some grief later on, I'd at least disassemble
your MC and put in a new rebuild kit if the bore is OK. I've had
problems with the little seal on the end that seals the line to the
reservoir going south after a few years.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
>I anticipate getting my newly painted chassis back next week and I am
looking
> forward to beginning the process of rebuilding my BN7. One of the
first
> things to go back into the engine bay is the master brake and clutch
> cylinders. They were working fine when removed last spring but I
don't want
> to have to remove them again in the next 10 years so I am looking at
them to
> see if they need rebuilding or replacing. One is obviously old and
has the
> imprint of Girling 5/8 on the body. The other is new and has only a
few
> letters and numbers (BI-TVS M06Y). I assume the Girling is possibly
> original?? I know that the originals had a hard surface in the bore
that
> eventually wares away and they can be resleeved. New replacements are
not too
> expensive. It would be easier and quicker to just buy a new
replacement
> instead of sending the old one out for resleeving. Are the modern
replacement
> cylinders good quality?? Are some better than others? Is there any
reason to
> keep the old one and have it resleeved instead of replacing it with a
new one?
> All opinions and advise are appreciated as always.
> Ron Fine
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