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Re: [Healeys] Oil

To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil
From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2016 17:35:49 +0000
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Talked to a guy that has rebuilt and is still rebuilding a lot of engine an=
d he said that the 2000 rpm is an industry standard and is so that the lift=
ers do not only have to go up and down but spin around in their bore. At lo=
wer RPM they may not turn enough and it is also not recommended to go above=
 2000 RPM as the engine is not under load.


Jean


________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bs=
pidell@comcast.net>
Sent: August 28, 2016 2:56 AM
To: michael.salter@gmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil


"... why the 2000 RPM?"

Good question.  Only explanation I've ever seen is you need plenty of oil s=
plashing around but, as you said, there would be at idle.  I'll take a SWAG=
 that maybe you need some revs to load up the valve springs to apply suffic=
ient pressure to the came lobes and lifters, to 'finish machine' them toget=
her.   Sort of like--esp. for aircraft piston engines--you need high BMEP t=
o bed the rings.

bs

com> wrote:

I have also always done that, in the belief that the RPM was necessary to e=
nsure that lots of oil was splashing around.
However at 10 revolutions per second (600 RPM) there has to be tons of oil =
whizzing around in the crankcase so why the 2000 RPM?
M



On Sat, Aug 27, 2016 at 8:44 PM -0400, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net<=
mailto:bspidell@comcast.net>> wrote:


Thanks, Kees.

I'm hearing/reading everywhere that the proper procedure for bedding-in
cams and lifters is to run at 2,000 RPM give-or-take for 20 minutes.

bs


On 8/27/2016 11:32 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> When rebuilding engines I have always thickly coated the bearing
> surfaces, and cam lobes using Graphite or Molybdenium grease. At first
> start up I disconnect the ignition until I have oil pressure, than
> idle the engine until warm after which I would drive at moderate speed
> and load for about 100miles. Never used running in oil , just the
> prescribed oil. Then drained the oil and fitted a new filter and
> filled up with fresh oil. Again another few thousand miles at moderate
> loads, oil and filter change after which speed and load were gradually
> increased until about 5000miles before full speed and load were
> applied. After a rebuild I never encountered any other wear issues on
> any engine. Some engines did more than 250.000 miles after that. The
> only thing that wore were the cylinder walls/rings/pistons and
> valves/seats.
> This is for road cars. Racing/rally cars are supposed to need a
> different approach, however even with engines that were raced I never
> went beyond the original procedure.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 27-8-2016 om 18:36 schreef Bob Spidell:
>>
>> Don't know if you know it, Michael, but you 'started' a long thread
>> on the Forum about this (Steve Gerow re-posted a link he got from you):
>>
>> http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?105991-Very-interestin=
g-very-long-blog-posting-racing-oil-and-zinc
>>
>> This guy's research, while impressive, has been disputed here:
>>
>> http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3266544-zinc-myt=
h-and-test-data-on-a-dozen-more-oils.html
>>
>> This is of major interest to me, as I'll be rebuilding my BJ8's
>> engine in the near future.  I've run it on off-the-shelf dino
>> 20W-50--Castrol, Chevron (mostly) and Valvoline--for almost 120K
>> miles so it will be interesting to see what the internals look like
>> now (also want to see what deposits, if any, the PCV valve has caused
>> in the intake system).  #2 has low compression and we'll see if cam
>> lobe wear is the cause.
>>
>> Agree with Chris on the cam lube.  I bought a bunch of GM EOS
>> assembly lube way back when and I'm tempted to pour a bottle down the
>> pushrod tubes before first startup.  Thoughts (of course, I'll use
>> assembly lube on the cam and all moving surfaces)?
>>
>> Also, I'm leaning towards buying a cam from Denis Welch, which they
>> say is 'gun-drilled' which, I presume, means the cam is lubricated
>> internally and supplies a stream of oil to the lobes.  I'll probably
>> also go with their bucket lifters which have a hole on the bottom to
>> supply yet more oil to the lifter-lobe surfaces.
>>
>> I'm interested in hearing any and all thoughts and experiences on
>> engine assembly and break-in.  I'm going all-in on this
>> rebuild--it'll be the last for this car (I hope)--and my dad wants a
>> friend of his who owns a racing engine shop to do the major work ($$$).
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>Talked to a guy that has rebuilt and is still rebuilding a lot of engine=
 and he said that the 2000 rpm is an industry standard and is so that the l=
ifters do not only have to go up and down but spin around in their bore. At=
 lower RPM they may not turn enough
 and it is also not recommended to go above 2000 RPM as the engine is not u=
nder load.
<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Jean<br>
</p>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font style=3D"font-size:11pt" face=
=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys &lt;healeys=
-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Bob Spidell &lt;bspidell@comcast.n=
et&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> August 28, 2016 2:56 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> michael.salter@gmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Oil</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<p>&quot;... why the 2000 RPM?&quot;</p>
<p>Good question.&nbsp; Only explanation I've ever seen is you need plenty =
of oil splashing around but, as you said, there would be at idle.&nbsp; I'l=
l take a SWAG that maybe you need some revs to load up the valve springs to=
 apply sufficient pressure to the came lobes
 and lifters, to 'finish machine' them together.&nbsp;&nbsp; Sort of like--=
esp. for aircraft piston engines--you need high BMEP to bed the rings.</p>
<p>bs<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 8/27/2016 6:21 PM, <a class=3D"moz-txt-li=
nk-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com";>
michael.salter@gmail.com</a> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<p dir=3D"auto">I have also always done that, in the belief that the RPM wa=
s necessary to ensure that lots of oil was splashing around.<br>
However at 10 revolutions per second (600 RPM) there has to be tons of oil =
whizzing around in the crankcase so why the 2000 RPM?<br>
M<br>
</p>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sat, Aug 27, 2016 at 8:44 PM -0400, &quot;Bob=
 Spidell&quot; <span dir=3D"ltr">
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; target=3D"_blank">bspidell@comc=
ast.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br>
<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0=0A=
          .8ex; border-left:1px #ccc solid; padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"3D&quot;ltr&quot;">
<pre>Thanks, Kees.=0A=
=0A=
I'm hearing/reading everywhere that the proper procedure for bedding-in =0A=
cams and lifters is to run at 2,000 RPM give-or-take for 20 minutes.=0A=
=0A=
bs=0A=
=0A=
=0A=
On 8/27/2016 11:32 AM, Oudesluys wrote:=0A=
&gt; When rebuilding engines I have always thickly coated the bearing =0A=
&gt; surfaces, and cam lobes using Graphite or Molybdenium grease. At first=
 =0A=
&gt; start up I disconnect the ignition until I have oil pressure, than =0A=
&gt; idle the engine until warm after which I would drive at moderate speed=
 =0A=
&gt; and load for about 100miles. Never used running in oil , just the =0A=
&gt; prescribed oil. Then drained the oil and fitted a new filter and =0A=
&gt; filled up with fresh oil. Again another few thousand miles at moderate=
 =0A=
&gt; loads, oil and filter change after which speed and load were gradually=
 =0A=
&gt; increased until about 5000miles before full speed and load were =0A=
&gt; applied. After a rebuild I never encountered any other wear issues on =
=0A=
&gt; any engine. Some engines did more than 250.000 miles after that. The =
=0A=
&gt; only thing that wore were the cylinder walls/rings/pistons and =0A=
&gt; valves/seats.=0A=
&gt; This is for road cars. Racing/rally cars are supposed to need a =0A=
&gt; different approach, however even with engines that were raced I never =
=0A=
&gt; went beyond the original procedure.=0A=
&gt; Kees Oudesluijs=0A=
&gt;=0A=
&gt;=0A=
&gt; Op 27-8-2016 om 18:36 schreef Bob Spidell:=0A=
&gt;&gt;=0A=
&gt;&gt; Don't know if you know it, Michael, but you 'started' a long threa=
d =0A=
&gt;&gt; on the Forum about this (Steve Gerow re-posted a link he got from =
you):=0A=
&gt;&gt;=0A=
&gt;&gt; <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://www.britishcarfo=
rum.com/bcf/showthread.php?105991-Very-interesting-very-long-blog-posting-r=
acing-oil-and-zinc">http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?10599=
1-Very-interesting-very-long-blog-posting-racing-oil-and-zinc</a>=0A=
&gt;&gt;=0A=
&gt;&gt; This guy's research, while impressive, has been disputed here:=0A=
&gt;&gt;=0A=
&gt;&gt; <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://www.corvetteforu=
m.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3266544-zinc-myth-and-test-data-on-a-dozen=
-more-oils.html">http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/32=
66544-zinc-myth-and-test-data-on-a-dozen-more-oils.html</a>=0A=
&gt;&gt;=0A=
&gt;&gt; This is of major interest to me, as I'll be rebuilding my BJ8's =
=0A=
&gt;&gt; engine in the near future.  I've run it on off-the-shelf dino =0A=
&gt;&gt; 20W-50--Castrol, Chevron (mostly) and Valvoline--for almost 120K =
=0A=
&gt;&gt; miles so it will be interesting to see what the internals look lik=
e =0A=
&gt;&gt; now (also want to see what deposits, if any, the PCV valve has cau=
sed =0A=
&gt;&gt; in the intake system).  #2 has low compression and we'll see if ca=
m =0A=
&gt;&gt; lobe wear is the cause.=0A=
&gt;&gt;=0A=
&gt;&gt; Agree with Chris on the cam lube.  I bought a bunch of GM EOS =0A=
&gt;&gt; assembly lube way back when and I'm tempted to pour a bottle down =
the =0A=
&gt;&gt; pushrod tubes before first startup.  Thoughts (of course, I'll use=
 =0A=
&gt;&gt; assembly lube on the cam and all moving surfaces)?=0A=
&gt;&gt;=0A=
&gt;&gt; Also, I'm leaning towards buying a cam from Denis Welch, which the=
y =0A=
&gt;&gt; say is 'gun-drilled' which, I presume, means the cam is lubricated=
 =0A=
&gt;&gt; internally and supplies a stream of oil to the lobes.  I'll probab=
ly =0A=
&gt;&gt; also go with their bucket lifters which have a hole on the bottom =
to =0A=
&gt;&gt; supply yet more oil to the lifter-lobe surfaces.=0A=
&gt;&gt;=0A=
&gt;&gt; I'm interested in hearing any and all thoughts and experiences on =
=0A=
&gt;&gt; engine assembly and break-in.  I'm going all-in on this =0A=
&gt;&gt; rebuild--it'll be the last for this car (I hope)--and my dad wants=
 a =0A=
&gt;&gt; friend of his who owns a racing engine shop to do the major work (=
$$$).=0A=
&gt;&gt;=0A=
&gt;&gt; Bob=0A=
&gt;&gt;=0A=
&gt;&gt;=0A=
=0A=
_______________________________________________=0A=
.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>=0A=
Archive: <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://www.team.net/arc=
hive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>=0A=
Forums: <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://www.team.net/foru=
ms">http://www.team.net/forums</a>=0A=
=0A=
<a class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net=
">Healeys@autox.team.net</a>=0A=
<a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/li=
stinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a>=0A=
=0A=
.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com">http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>=0A=
=0A=
</pre>
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</div>
</blockquote>
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Healeys@autox.team.net
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