I have used Chevy Duty's 99 dollar harness's. Some of the wires could stand to
be a tad longer. I just smoked one by getting anxious to to fire the truck up. I
had one wire that grounded out and it true. Wire does have smoke in it. I let it
ALL out. I have another new harness coming in a few days. Do I get the "stupid"
award for the month? Maybe we can share some things that were stupid in the past
. Somebody might learn something and save a disaster.
Anyhow, If your wiring and electric skills are not strong, I would like to
suggest to lay out the harness on your professional work surface like a bed and
wire the gauges and ignition switch while you are upright. Standing on your head
with a leg out each door does not make for easy wiring. You could even leave the
gauges wired up and try to feel the other wire through the firewall. The wires
for the ignition switch on the AD trucks is very close to the lower lip of the
dash. If you have something other than a stock switch in place, be doubly sure
the none of the contacts are not grounded out.
BTW, get a can of white spray paint and paint the underside of the dash with
the paint. It makes wiring a kazillion times easier. You can see a lot of the
times without a flashlight. Has anyone else had a hard time getting the
instrument panel lamp sockets to clip in?
> Tibbers I used the wiring harness from Chevy Duty. I was very pleased with
> the quality of the harness and connecters, etc. Not being electrically
> inclined I found the instructions a bit weak. When I called their tech
> hotline they weren't very much help.
> Overall I found the electrical part of my restoration the most difficult and
> frustrating. You are doing the right thing by researching who has the best
> and easiest to install.
> Good luck.
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959