Not sure if that particular rear had a crush sleeve or not, I've never
taken one apart. If you just replaced the seal, shouldn't be no big deal.
The crush sleeve and all the gear meshing measurement pertain if you take
the rear end apart and have to reset up the shims. I'm no expert on this
but would think installing the nut to the torque setting mention in the
manual would be fine, these nuts on a later model rear have the nut that
has the nylon on 'em so they don't work loose. I'd install the nut till the
axles start turning and see what torque reading your at--probably be closer
to the mentioned specs that you think.
--wayne (trying to help)
At 11:26 AM 1/22/02 -0700, A.B. wrote:
>Hi, thanks for the help,
>maybe we're not on the same page because I can't find any "crush sleeve".
>When I took off the nut, the only thing behind the flange (the thing the
>drive shaft connects to at the u-joint) was a tapered roller bearing.
>the nut that holds the flange on had a washer as you describe behind it.
>All I did was change out the seal. Also, I see no mention of a crush
>sleeve in the book. Should I just tighten the nut to 20 in-lbs and check
>as described below? thanks again...
>-alfie
>
>
>On Tue, 22 Jan 2002, Wayne Osborne wrote:
>
> > If wrong i'm sure someone will correct me..... Thats sounds about the
> > correct amount of torque..This setting is directly related to the tightness
> > of the rear end gear mesh-to tight as mentioned below and it'll overheat
> > and fail. Here's a bit more info the subject: Search the archives for many
> > other emails on the subject.. Rear end setups can be tricky as to why
> > most folks let the pros do it. A bad setup and you can ruin a 400 dollar
> > ring/pinion gears--wayne
> >
> > be sure new crush sleeve is used. be sure big flat washer that goes
> > behind the retaining nut is used.......(i have seen them left
> out).....use a
> > new retaining nut.........use lock tight red on the threads when you
> > install the nut......it takes about 200 ft-lbs of torque to crush the
> > sleeve......
> > so i use my 3/4 drive socket and 4ft handle to do the pulling.....i have a
> > open end wrench that fits the outside of the yoke to hold it......i let it
> > turn up against the floorboards or frame to lock it in
> > place..........carefully
> > turn down the nut crushing the sleeve until there is no fore and aft move
> > ,ment in the pinion shaft......turn just a little bit tighter......so
> it takes
> > about12-15 inch-pounds of torque to twist the pinion shaft in direction
> > of operation............test drive it......under35 mph........ for 35
> > mins....and check the housing near the yoke for heat buildup.....you should
> > be able to hold your hand on the housing with no pain...............if you
> > assemble it too tight it will run hot and fail From:jerry mungon
> >
> >
> > At 09:59 AM 1/22/02 -0700, you wrote:
> > >Hi,
> > >I'm trying to figure out how tight to make the pinion flange nut on my '58
> > >rear axle. The manual asks you to record the torque it takes to spin the
> > >axle. When you put the pinion flange nut back on, the manual says to
> > >incrimentally torque the nut while checking the preload against the
> > >previously recorded torque. this is a very small number (<20 in-lbs!), so
> > >I'm finding it hard to believe that I need to only torque this nut to such
> > >a small setting. The Book makes no mention of a preload torque. Has
> > >anyone encountered this situation? Thank you.
> > >-alfie
> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > Wayne Osborne
> > 1956 Chevy Pickup
> > LaGrange Ga.
> > http://www.chevytrucks.org
> > http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
Wayne Osborne
1956 Chevy Pickup
LaGrange Ga.
http://www.chevytrucks.org
http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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