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Re: [oletrucks] pinion flage nut question.

To: Mike Baggese <passnb4u@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] pinion flage nut question.
From: "A.B." <bigfred@unm.edu>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:57:00 -0700 (MST)
Thanks.
I'll look in my book again, maybe I'm missing something.


On Tue, 22 Jan 2002, Mike Baggese wrote:

> Let me explain a bit.
>
> The in/lb rating you see/refer to is the amount of rotational torque needed
> on the pinion bearings, measured without the axles or the ring gear
> installed.
>
> This is the pinion bearing preload.
>
> In order to accomplish this, you need to add/subtract shims from the races
> on the pinion shaft and tighten the pinion nut to 150-175 (or whatever
> youspec call for) FT/LB.
>
> Once the pinion nut is tightened to say 175FT/LBs, then you take a in/lb
> torque wrench and rotate the pinion shaft (via the pinion nut) and measure
> the required torque it take to maintain it spinning, not the amount of
> torque required to start iot spinning (which will be higher) but what it
> takes to keep it spinning.
>
> Again, if the amount is too low or too high, you need to add/remove shims
> to get the correct torque.
>
> You can see whay you can't set the in/lb preload while spining the axles
> and ringgear...because the rotational forces applied by each will most
> likely be more than the pinion bearing pre-load setting required.
>
>   Now I've never set up an original TF rear, but have done a few Dana's and
> Spicers from later model cars and trucks, the original TF rear is a bit
> different as I recall, I'll look in one of my manuals to see if there's any
> quirks.
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: A.B. <bigfred@unm.edu>
> > To: Wayne Osborne <wayne@chevytrucks.org>
> > Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>  > Date: 1/22/02 10:26:58 AM
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] pinion flage nut question.
> >
> > Hi, thanks for the help,
> > maybe we're not on the same page because I can't find any "crush sleeve".
> > When I took off the nut, the only thing behind the flange (the thing the
> > drive shaft connects to at the u-joint) was a tapered roller bearing.
> > the nut that holds the flange on had a washer as you describe behind it.
> > All I did was change out the seal. Also, I see no mention of a crush
> > sleeve in the book.  Should I just tighten the nut to 20 in-lbs and check
> > as described below? thanks again...
> > -alfie
> >
> >
> > On Tue, 22 Jan 2002, Wayne Osborne wrote:
> >
> > > If wrong i'm sure someone will correct me.....  Thats sounds about the
> > > correct amount of torque..This setting is directly related to the
> tightness
> > > of the rear end gear mesh-to tight as mentioned below and it'll overheat
> > > and fail. Here's a bit more info the subject: Search the archives for
> many
> > > other emails on the subject..   Rear end setups can be tricky as to why
> > > most folks let the pros do it. A bad setup and you can ruin a 400 dollar
> > > ring/pinion gears--wayne
> > >
> > > be sure new crush sleeve is used. be sure big flat washer that goes
> > > behind the retaining nut is used.......(i have seen them left
> out).....use a
> > > new retaining nut.........use lock tight red on the threads when you
> > > install the nut......it takes about 200 ft-lbs of torque to crush the
> > > sleeve......
> > > so i use my 3/4 drive socket and 4ft handle to do the pulling.....i
> have a
> > > open end wrench that fits the outside of the yoke to hold it......i let
> it
> > > turn up against the floorboards or frame to lock it in
> > > place..........carefully
> > > turn down the nut crushing the sleeve until there is no fore and aft
> move
> > > ,ment in the pinion shaft......turn just a little bit tighter......so
> it takes
> > > about12-15 inch-pounds of torque to twist the pinion shaft in direction
> > > of operation............test drive it......under35 mph........ for 35
> > > mins....and check the housing near the yoke for heat buildup.....you
> should
> > > be able to hold your hand on the housing with no pain...............if
> you
> > > assemble it too tight it will run hot and fail     From:jerry mungon
> > >
> > >
> > > At 09:59 AM 1/22/02 -0700, you wrote:
> > > >Hi,
> > > >I'm trying to figure out how tight to make the pinion flange nut on my
> '58
> > > >rear axle. The manual asks you to record the torque it takes to spin
> the
> > > >axle. When you put the pinion flange nut back on, the manual says to
> > > >incrimentally torque the nut while checking the preload against the
> > > >previously recorded torque. this is a very small number (<20 in-lbs!),
> so
> > > >I'm finding it hard to believe that I need to only torque this nut to
> such
> > > >a small setting.  The Book makes no mention of a preload torque. Has
> > > >anyone encountered this situation? Thank you.
> > > >-alfie
> > > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > >
> > > Wayne Osborne
> > > 1956 Chevy Pickup
> > > LaGrange Ga.
> > > http://www.chevytrucks.org
> > > http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
> --- Mike
> --- passnb4u@earthlink.net
> --- EarthLink: The #1 provider of the Real Internet.
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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